Why an LSx platform?

[LTLHOMER]

Originally Posted by qwiknotch

I heard you can also use an external oil pump vs a dry sump, but that's only when you are spinning the LS engines over 7000

Yeah I took mine 8500 on the stock setup and the end result was a rod out of the oil pan. Oooops! I either had to lift top-end or keep it hammered and hope she didn't blow. It worked the first 74 times! lol

[qwiknotch]

hahaha...

8500, huh? hmm... Maybe I will be safe at 7400

[Billyman]

Originally Posted by LTLHOMER

Yeah I took mine 8500 on the stock setup and the end result was a rod out of the oil pan. Oooops! I either had to lift top-end or keep it hammered and hope she didn't blow. It worked the first 74 times! lol

What kind of oil pan and oil control?

[LTLHOMER]

Originally Posted by Billyman

What kind of oil pan and oil control?

Stock everything. Fbody cast pan. I think the pump was an upgraded unit but that's it.

[Billyman]

That my friend was your problem.

[qwiknotch]

So, is there a way without spending thousands on a dry sump (since I can't use one in the class I run) or an external oil pump, to maintain proper oiling at 7500???

[LTLHOMER]

Originally Posted by Billyman

That my friend was your problem.

haha I'd say so. It was fun while it lasted though.

Best pass at Stanton:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/T...best_75374.htm

[Billyman]

Originally Posted by qwiknotch

So, is there a way without spending thousands on a dry sump (since I can't use one in the class I run) or an external oil pump, to maintain proper oiling at 7500???

It wasn't too long ago a gentleman called me from a shop in Florida (we are in N.C.) with oiling problems. He said he had 80 psi of oil pressure until he got to the end of the track and running in excess of 7 grand where the oil pressure dropped below 10psi. I suggested some parts and he had them "next day aired" since the customer was coming to the car the next day. He called me back with a huge "thank you" and a "worked like a charm".

Oil pressure amounts are crucial to an aluminum LS block and mainly due to block flex and expansion. .0012 clearance on the mains can be .0031 real quick throughout a 1/4 mile pass. The old rule of thumb about oil pressure raising 1 psi for every 100 RPM is out the door. With these blocks we fight to maintain a constant. The actual problem is poor oil control under acceleration and literally running out of oil in the pick up area of the factory oil pan. Not that all the oil gets pumped up top mind you but because of the extra clearances involved.

A GM LS6 oil pump will do the job you want without modification. Any clean up, deburring or spring shimming for added oil pressure is up to you. Something as simple as an oil pan, baffle and pickup tube will save your ass.

This kit does require a remote oil filter and there are lots of such on the market. The oil pan kit I'd advise is (and can be found at a number of different places):

http://www.lmperformance.com/18630/1.html

You won't be sorry you did it.

[Mike Beck]

I was just working with someone that built an LS2 motor. We were breaking-in the motor, just racking-up some street miles and tuning the part-throttle with the BS3. Everything was going perfect, until.............After about 250 miles on the motor we stepped into it a few times. Pulled great, more than I would have expected for what it is. Did that a few times, no traffic or police around! A/F ratio looked just about perfect, oil pressure great, water temp great. After the third "pull" (we brought it to 7200rpm on that last one) the engine started to "lope" like an alcohol car does at idle, but we were driving along at 55 mph! I thought he was fucking around, but his foot was steady on the throttle!

We pull-over, motor goes down to idle and sat there at 1000rpm smoothly, revved it a few times, seemed fine, air temp and water temp was good, oil pressure was good. We decide to go get more gas and call it a day. About 10 miles from there WHAM, oil pressure falls to 15psi driving along at 2000rpm! Rev the motor in neutral, oil pressure is rising and falling with the rpm. We pull-off the road, no strange noises, pull the dip stick, it's full. Re-start the motor, 15psi and lifters sound kinda noisy (hydraulic).

He says fuck it, we are 2 miles from my house and we drive it home. All temps were good, engine ran smooth, only 15psi! Kept rpm under 2000 on 25mph side streets.

He flat-beds it home, cuts apart the filter (remote mount) and it's full of bearing material! He will be pulling the motor back out and bring it back to the machine shop this week.

So...........after this long story, what do you guys think? He thought the cam felt a little snug when he slid it in. The machine shop told him don't worry. If the aluminum expands when it gets hot, wouldn't the bearing clearances close-up?

I have always been impressed with the oil pressure on my 2001 2500-series Silverado with the 6.0l. Always at a minimum of 40psi no matter what! Just like my race motor once I went to an aftermarket block. My other race motors based-off of stock GM blocks would always drop to 20psi when they were hot at idle, but not my Bowtie block, it is always 40psi when hot. GM and the aftermarket certainly fixed something with these better blocks.

I thought they also made this fix with the LS-series blocks. From what I am reading here, there is a problem though it you want to turn them past 6500.

Just what needs to be done to make them work? This is exactly why I stuck with the "old school" shit. I bracket race and need 100% reliability, not a few-pass wonder like the 302 Mustangs and Grand Nationals used to be. Has to withstand 300+ passes a year before a tear-down. Most of my buddies go close to 1000 passes on the old stuff before they take them apart.

Who is doing this with the LS motors? Haven't seen any around here, I don't want to be the guinea-pig unless someone is donating the stuff to me to run, then they can have it back after a year, or it blows-up, whichever comes first!

Good-flowing heads don't mean crap when the rest of it comes apart. Not knocking the new motors, but they were not designed for bracket-racing abuse, neither were the old ones.

[Billyman]

On aluminum blocks pinning the main caps helps a bunch. Running a main girdle helps the most if not all but cures the block twist problem. Still it is an aluminum block so clearances are critical as to leave or take away room for growth.

On iron blocks such as the LQ4 6.0 block, the main girdle isn't necessary but pinning the caps is still recommended. We ran a 6.0 iron block "LS" setup in one of our race cars for over 2 years and I couldn't count the number of passes it has on it. It's on the stand right now and is still a strong runner, it was just time to upgrade.

The fact still remains on the iron and aluminum blocks, oil control is everything and that starts with a good oil pan.

If you've seen the video's of "the worlds fastest/quickest TrailBlazerSS".........give us a few months and see what it's doing then.

[1badazzride2]

Originally Posted by Billyman

On aluminum blocks pinning the main caps helps a bunch. Running a main girdle helps the most if not all but cures the block twist problem. Still it is an aluminum block so clearances are critical as to leave or take away room for growth.

On iron blocks such as the LQ4 6.0 block, the main girdle isn't necessary but pinning the caps is still recommended. We ran a 6.0 iron block "LS" setup in one of our race cars for over 2 years and I couldn't count the number of passes it has on it. It's on the stand right now and is still a strong runner, it was just time to upgrade.

The fact still remains on the iron and aluminum blocks, oil control is everything and that starts with a good oil pan.

If you've seen the video's of "the worlds fastest/quickest TrailBlazerSS".........give us a few months and see what it's doing then.

Something NEW for the Shoot Out I take it??

[Billyman]

Something old-something new.

Same TBSS, just revamped. The quickest pass it ever had was 10.21 @132.

It was waaaayyyyy too slow.

[1badazzride2]

Dam Billy if ya call that slow - mine is a F'in turtle.
thanks alot

[njc.corp]

who makes a decent oil pan for a 04 gto?(front pan set-up)

what are people's thought's on the meling 295 and 296 lsx oil pumps?

Thanks

Nick--

[Pro Stock John]

Mike Beck, sorry to hear about your buddy's problems. I think honestly that something was not built right in the engine, or the tune was off and there was detonation.

In the early years of the LS1 scene there was some engines that would have problems like that but it was more to do with bearing clearances and other install issues. There are now many combos out there that have a lot of passes on them before getting pulled. Some early LS1 engine players either didn't have strong backgrounds building any engines or were making mistakes, but we are 6-7 years past a lot of that stuff. Good luck.