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Old 11-29-2006, 04:17 PM   #1
nxtruck
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Default SBC INTAKE W/4 CORNER COOLING

Has anyone seen any cooling improvements with using the rear cooling ports on a sbc intake? If I end up buying an intake, I'd like to know if it's worth the time and trouble to plumb it with external lines. Thanks in advance...
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:26 PM   #2
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I don't think on a NA engine you will see a difference and your temp gauge won't show it either but I can tell you endurace engines like cup motors have it and alot of nitrous engines have it to cool down the rear cylinders but don't think you will put a couple of lines on and gain anything other than piece of mind and possibly some longevity.
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:27 PM   #3
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If you do plumb it, use much smaller lines like a -4 or less from the rear to the front so you are just bleeding air and allowing more cool water to flow to, and fill the rear. It makes absolutely no sense pulling water from the area back there, and BYPASSING the path needed to cool the heads from the rear.

Some folks seem to think they have improvements with it, I say it's in their head.

You want the water to get back there, and do it's job by flowing from the rear, to the front along the heads.... not bypass it the process with a big line.

I have mixed emotions about it obviously.

There is nobody these days utilizing that kind of cooling system in endurance, cup etc.... they have effectively re-routed and designed their cooling systems from scratch.
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:42 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info guys! I guess it wouldn't make much difference on my setup, from the sounds of it. Thanks again!!
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:11 PM   #5
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I've heard some pretty far out claims about this modification too.

Last summer I did some heat rejection analysis on SBC engines and found that all four corners were within 4°F. This being the case, it makes absolutely no sense to re-route water flow that in effect will only bypass the center of the heads (precisely where all the heat is).

On FUNCTIONAL setups that have 4-corner outlets, there is also a change in routing water into the block. The preferred way to do this is to block off the front passages & plumb 100% of the water into the sides of the block between the two center cylinders with -12 AN hose.

Using the revised inlet routing & some minor head gasket modifications, the outlets can basically consist of four 7/16" holes (orifices installed in the heads on the ends of each intake manifold surface). From there individual hoses can be run from each corner to a common that connects with the radiator.

In total there are three variations of plumbing that basically consist of what I've described above.

Some of the earlier 23° heads were modified so that water would flow into the head from the exhaust side of the deck (mainly in the center) and roll over to the intake side.

This configuration was typically plumbed with three outlets per head-one on each end and the other two at each end.

Typical 18° setups featured water inlets at the stock locations and on the sides of the block, and water was pushed into the siamese area of the exhaust ports. Normally there were only four total water outlets on the 18° engines.

SB2.2 configuration is the result of analytical study (CFD) that was followed up with hardware testing that indicated feeding water into the block completely from the sides, along with head gasket revisions, was indeed the way to go.

Four water outlets are used, but water is DRAWN from the center of the heads into the low pressure side of the water pump (top & center of a Stewart pump). This resulted in an approx. 30° bridge temp. decrease vs. PUSHING water into that location.

To simply plumb hoses from the back of the manifold to the front is rediculous. The only possible benefit would be an escape path for trapped air, but as Chris indicated the hoses should be small.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:18 PM   #6
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Very interesting information Rob! Thank you for the info! Chris
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Old 11-29-2006, 11:06 PM   #7
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What about doing that mod on a small block ford? would it be worth it or will the two cooling systems work the same?
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Old 11-30-2006, 11:53 AM   #8
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Similar modifications can be done with the Ford. Howard Stewart used to have a diagram & descriptions for these modifications on his waterpump site.

You can probably get these from him if you send him a note and I would encourage you to do this before attempting to drill holes & hang hoses. There's more to it than just that.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:00 PM   #9
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Rob I am a little late jumping in here but on my SB2.2 setup I have plumbed from the sides of my CSR waterpump -4 lines into the ports on the sides of my heads in the centers, one on each side. This is pushing water into this area I assume. Should I be pulling it from there instead or is getting something in there for 9 seconds better than nothing?
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:31 PM   #10
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I guess something's better than nothing, but pulling water from that location in combination with the other details described earlier will yield the most heat removed from that area.

I'm not sure why the idea of a belt driven waterpump is so scary in the drag racing world. If your system was configured with a belt driven pump plus the mods, you would definitely be able to do more agressive tuning.

Considering the belt driven pump is only a few HP parastitic loss, is it not likely that you would gain more than a few in tuning, and end up with a safer, more reliable setup? I doubt any of the electric pumps on the market today will produce anywhere near the same jacket pressures as a belt driven pump can easily provide.....

Circulation in the pits can be handled with a remote electric pump for cool down purposes.
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Old 01-08-2007, 08:51 PM   #11
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Thanks Rob for the input. I have seen the set ups the NASCAR guys run and have tried to figure them out. Some of them run fittings between each of the cylinders it looks like.
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