Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
I have a question , can you add to trunk down bars using the same size tubing ? In my case 1-5/8s moly ...My down bars come down thru my package tray and attach to plates on the trunk floor right by my wheel tubs. I'm wanting to mount leaf spring sliders in my trunk using some 3/16s plate I would like to attach these plates to the cage for added strength. my cage is or was 8.50 cert but it expires at the end of April
My eyes have gotten blurry trying to read all of the posts. I have a package tray bar that comes up short of the frame over the body mount and I would have to make a perch or add tubing. Which is legal? I also have a straight back bar that can drop to the 4-5 inch position, but may hit wheel tubs not installed yet. 1 5/8 mild steel. Thanks for the help, and understanding. A body Chevelle....
Is there a minimum length a tubing gusset has to be at the short end. I want to use one at the halo to pillar bar and another at the halo to main hoop.
Is there a minimum length a tubing gusset has to be at the short end. I want to use one at the halo to pillar bar and another at the halo to main hoop.
Just want to make sure of one thing before I start my cage install this weekend. The rear bars HAVE to be tied to the floor. I am seeing a lot of foxbody guys run a bar between the rear shock mounts and mount thier rear down bars to that and NOT the floor but what I am reading is that is NOT legal. Just looking for an 8.5 cert.
If the rear bars are welded to a bar welded between the shock towers then it would be legal, it's welded to the floor. Why you wouldnt go to the floor in the rear above the frame rails and run supports to the shock towers I don't know but some guys do it that way
This is a dumb question but i just want to make sure...
building a 1800hp 4 door... no way to build a 25.3 cage without completely ruining the back seat area right?
Its more of a novelty/joke kinda thing and to be honest it will probably just run low 8s rather then the high 7s 1800hp suggests but it would make me chuckle to have the back seat sitable and ride able.
I'll probably have to ditch them to get my fatass galaxie down to 3600lbs
NHRA 8.5 cage in a back half car with through floor 2x3 subframe connectors. How swept back can I put the "D" bars from the hoop to my subframes? I'd like to have them angled back instead of directly under the main hoop. Can I add bars to the cage for structural purposes?
there is no spec for the "D" bars other than diameter and what other component they must be attached to. yes you can add all the extra bars you want. the pictures and text (most importantly the text) in the rule book and spec book are minimums and examples, doesn't mean the cage has to look that way it's just a guideline to help people better visualize it.
Question. I dont see a lot of 8.50 cages with the bar thats below the door bar. Main hoop to front pillar bar going down. It runs a long the rocker. I'm adding a cage right now and was wondering if i should put that.
I'm in the process of mini tubing my nova , my trunk down bars are 2" away from the drivers side tub , I would like to notch the frame but the bar land on top of the frame rail. I had the car caged before I decided to mini tub the car ( my mistake ) and now I'm wanting to mini tub it to run a 15x10 and a 275 tire. can I remove my down bars and relocate them ? I've been told I could. cage was certed for 8.50 but has since expired. 1-5/8s moly is what I'm working with.
Anyone have examples of an NHRA 8.50 cage using the B3 setup. Its a minimum of 6 bars. I've got 1 5/8" now, but am adding more bars anyhow. I might just do it all in 1 1/4". I'm just not sure if all of the bars will be getting in the way of being able to use the rear seat area if I do go with B3
You'd think after reading all these threads that I wouldn't have any more questions, but there are still a couple of things that are not clear to me on the 25.3 cert for full unibody cars.
If you have a chromoly 1 5/8 8.5 cert cage where the main hoop and #12 bars are properly welded to 6" plates on the rocker/floor/subframe, can you convert to 25.3 by attaching the 6a/b to the #12 bars and #1 crossmember to the main hoop near the floor plate? I am getting conflicting info on this. Some are saying that the mainhoop/12 bars MUST be attached over the #1/#6 bars.
from the 25.3 spec:
v.1 - Uni-Body construction
.... The plates must be formed and fully welded where the Driver/Passenger side windshield/roof bars (#'s 12A & 12B) and the driver/passenger side forward cross member/foot brace (#'s 6A & 6B) intersect in the front. The plates must also be formed on both sides where the main hoop (#10) and Rear Cross Member (#1) intersect the OEM rocker panels in the back or the main hoop can be welded directly to the Rear Cross Member (#1) on both sides in the back and the Driver/Passenger Side windshield/Roof bars (#'s 12A & 12B) can be welded directly to the outer portions of the Driver/Passenger Side forward cross member/Foot brace (#'s 6A & 6B) on both sides in the front. ....
The "or" and "can" led me to believe it was an option to set the lower portions of the cage hoop/12 bars on the horizontal bars, not that it MUST be attached there. What are some acceptable ways to attach the intersection point of these bars to the 6" plate.
The other is question is about not needing the floor crossbars on full unibody if the #2 bars are welded to the floor. What constitutes "welded to floor" In my case the #2 bars will be above the floor and it looks to be a bitch to weld under the bar due to the sharp angle where the floor and round bar meet. Does it have to be fully stitch welded across the entire bar? Can some flat stock be added parallel to the floor to connect the floor and #2 bars?
I am installing a cage in a pickup truck and planned to mount the cage to out riggers but the main hoop was bent to have it mount to plates welded to the floor the legs on the hoop are to short is this legal and will it pass for 8.50 cert? I still plan to use out riggers to tie the cab to the chassis.
You can sleeve the bars to extend them. From the SFI 25.4 spec:
All butt welds must have visible reinforcement or interior sleeve(s), six (6) inches minimum (3" on each side of the joint center line), with visible rosette welds. Rosette welds shall be within one-half (1/2) inch from the end of the interior tube and must be a minimum of 1/4" in diameter.
This has probably been talked about but i went through every page and didnt find anything about it. im currently building a 92 s10 and i am looking at putting in a 10 point cage right now i building the truck with the anticipation of going much faster. My question is, is their any benifit or reason to have X down bars rather than straight down bars that run parallel to each other
The best thing to do is call your NHRA tech inspector for your area. He (or she) should be able to properly answer your question. Good luck!
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