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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#294 ·
OK thanks, Ill plan to run the B bars into the trunk, I considered welding them to the wheel tubs but have read that's not a good idea... not sure why.

Also, I un packaged all my components and noticed that the vertical bars on the main hoop are not perfectly square, they point in toward each other about 15 deg from what would be vertically level. Is that an issue, should I heat them up and try to bend them out a bit?
 
#308 ·
Could use some help with the tube notching. I got the 90* notch down but as far as making a 30* or 35* noth Im not having any luck practicing on some scrap. I have a cut off saw and cut off wheel Ive been using, no hole saw jig to use. Can someone give me some tips for doing these?
 
#310 ·
Well guys just so you all know I got through yesterday and answered the questions I needed answered and also have the book on the way. So there you go I'm not a cheap fuck. I wanted to know something and stepped up....
 
#313 ·
I have 2 roll cage questions. I presently am not fast enough to warrant a cage now but since my interior is out I added the a-pillar bar.

1. I am almost done installing a 10pt cage in my trans am(unibody). I was thinking of leaving out the "d-bars" until I am fast enough to need them (probably be a couple years)
Is this legal? Or b/c it is a unibody car, I need the d-bars welded to 6x6 plates to the trans tunnel. And if so, to what ET I am legal too?

2. Do I need a window net even though I am not faster than 9.99? Or as soon as I install a cage, the net is needed?

The fastest I will be going this year is 10.5's
 
#316 ·
Ok guys can you tell me the difference between EWS and DOM? Also how can you tell the difference between the two? Isn't DOM better? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
#320 ·
25.3 question,

If I run with 51C back bars can I bend the 2 bars that go straight back and land on the shock support bar. I would like to bend them to follow the contour of the body (c pillar) as it is a wagon. If I leave them straight they will be very visible from the side, which I don't care about if it means the end result is stronger. But if it is allowed I will likely bend them to hide as much of the cage as possible. Being a wagon with a short door I have some questions about the roof x braces as well but I will post pics with those questions soon.

Thanks again!
 
#324 ·
I really like this thread, I have learned a ton! I am building a cage & had a question about the seat cross bar. I know this normally welds to the main hoop.

My cage has 2 rear support bars that go from the hoop to the rear bars. Can the seat cross bar weld to these supports near the main hoop?

Wow that description sucks-sorry! Here's a picture, should make more sense:)

I understand if it can go there it will still have to be located even to 4" below shoulders

Thanks in advance for any advice, I really appreciate

Dan


 
#327 ·
Just wanted to update in case anybody is trying to do this themselves. It took a bit to get an answer from the NHRA, but they were very helpful to me.

They felt the seat bar needs to be notched & welded directly to the main hoop only, so the way I hoped to do mine won't pass.

Figured I'd pass it along if it helps somebody



.
 
#325 ·
What kind of hole saws you guys using ? Or should I use ????______
I have a drill press, and an arbor....tried the hole saws I had...what a mess. :(
Speed all the way down (500rpm) and was working well on a 90* but when I try a 45* the saw is too short, so the top of the pipe hits inside and won't allow to cut all the way through.
 
#326 ·
Though I am far from an expert on the subject, I will be happy to let you know what has worked for me.

I have had great luck with both Lenox & Milwaukee metal home saws. They are reasonably priced & hold up fine.

If the hole saw bottoms out on deep angles, go as far as you can, which will probably be a little over 1/2 way through. Back the hole saw out of the way, and use a cut off wheel to cut the piece out of the way that is bottoming out in the hole saw.

With that out of the way you can finish notching all the way through. Not sure if that makes sense. If pics will help me know, be happy to help
 
#336 ·
Pillar bars. Can't disagree with you one bit. I think the natural lines of the headliner, being that it is also curved let a halo fit better. Still need to think it through. I'm trying to reduce a compound bend. The pillar bars will need to need to spread out about 2" and make a very tight bend at the dash with another compound angle to the floor. It would need 2 compound bends if it were 1 piece to the main hoop. As opposed to only one bend.

Thank you for your answers on the board. It helps greatly.


On a side note, anyone have tips for making an arc with a tubing bender? Because curved windshield. Multiple small bends from center out? I made a square index clamp for a digital angle finder. If I keep the tube level and bend, slide, bend, slide, bend etc, I should be able to make a slight arc correct?
 
#337 ·
Pillar bars. Can't disagree with you one bit. I think the natural lines of the headliner, being that it is also curved let a halo fit better. Still need to think it through. I'm trying to reduce a compound bend. The pillar bars will need to need to spread out about 2" and make a very tight bend at the dash with another compound angle to the floor. It would need 2 compound bends if it were 1 piece to the main hoop. As opposed to only one bend.

Thank you for your answers on the board. It helps greatly.


On a side note, anyone have tips for making an arc with a tubing bender? Because curved windshield. Multiple small bends from center out? I made a square index clamp for a digital angle finder. If I keep the tube level and bend, slide, bend, slide, bend etc, I should be able to make a slight arc correct?
The tight bend at the dash isn't hard to do. I use to use one piece from the main hoop all the way to the floor. Making those two bends at different angles was "testy" at times. The way I do it now (along with most others)....is use one piece from the main hoop down to the dash bar, another piece from the dash bar to the floor. It's easy to make it fit TIGHT doing it that way. Just something for you to think about.:smt102
 
#338 ·
I started pulling the dash out today, and I decided against a dash bar. There just isn't much room for it. I layed my template bend across the windshield and the door opening. I will make the pillar bars start right at the radius of the halo bend and angle them outward to follow the A pilar. The cage will be nicely tucked into the contours of the headliner and from the side of the door opening, can't be seen until you look under the ceiling. It all fits above the jambs. I'm doing a back half too. From the middle of the rear seat to the rear panel is all gone. I hope this doesn't mean a dash bar is mandatory.
 
#340 ·
Does the dash bar need to be (or can it be) welded from post to post with a plate? I think I'd much rather weld a plate on the body posts and run the dash bar across from post to post. Having the dash removed allows a dash bar to go into a perfect spot without hacking up the dash panel. The bar will need to be curved, but 3 bends is all it needs. I DONT want gussets so i'll be using 1 5\8.
 
#343 ·
Yes Overkill, I meant the body a pilars. I was under the impression that the dash bar was welded to the body. It would obviously make the front of the cage stronger if it was tied into the car on the door pilars, and I was going to try and kill two birds with one stone. I'll add the dash bar later.
 
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