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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#251 ·
I did read the Rulebook dick.....I wAs verifying.
A lot in the book is up for "interpretation" if you ask me.

Thanks for the attitude though.
was just returning the favor, love getting attitude when i'm trying to help someone...lol if you were just verifying then why didn't "no" suffice? why was a long drawn out explanation needed?

think you better check who's being the dick in this situation.
 
#252 ·
Well call it even....How about this for a question Im not sure of.....Once again....Interpretation.

If I remove the forward portion of the trans Tunnel.....do I need the lower dash tie bar, and if so, at what level does it need to be placed.
Once again, 8.50 Cert.
 
#260 ·
will this work:

I welded the 6"x6" plates on my trans tunnel and in order to get a similar angle on them it screws me on the drivers side. On the drivers side I had to cut a slit in about 1" of the plate, fold it over, and weld it up to get the full 6"x6" plate. Otherwise I would have destroyed the tunnel trying to heat it up and beat it. So this is what I have:




 
#263 ·
I have a S&W 10 point cage kit for Sonoma. So far it is fitting very well.
Any my question is about the 3x2 outriggers and 6x6 plates. According to everything I have read (s&w direction, NHRA rule book, & this forum) I need to tig weld all the tubing joints. That is clear. Can mig the plates to the driveshaft tunnel for lateral supports to attach to and also mig weld outriggers to the frame? Tig welding in the plates will be no big deal. Welding the tops of the outriggers would be much easier with a mig.

Thanks guys:D
 
#266 ·
is the cage already welded to the 6X6? i usually fit the plates to the floor drill holes under the plate where the cage will go fit the cage together weld as much as i can then pull the plates out drop the cage down weld the top, push the cage back up and finish welding.
 
#268 ·
The cage in this car I got has a hole cut in each plate for the main hoop to drop threw and took the pieces that they cut and welded them back in. I wish I knew how to post pics from my phone so I could show what I am talking about. I would rather cut the cage out now then wait to find out it won't pass
 
#270 ·
anyone with a 25.3 cert sheet? Need to know if 6c can be bolted (flange with 4-3/8" bolts) in the chassis as it doubles for the trans x member? Not going 25.3 but will in the future, thanks.....
 
#274 ·
Does anyone know why S&W race cars doesn't recommend DOM tubing for drag racing? Example ad:

2005 Chevy Cobalt LS & SS 2 door 10 Point Roll Cage 11-1525
2005 Chevy Cobalt LS & SS 2 door, Available in 1-5/8 x .134" EWS mild steel wall tubing or 1-5/8" x .083 Chrome Moly wall tubing or 1-3/4" x .120 wall DOM mild steel tubing Do not recommend DOM tubing for drag racing applications Photo is for clarification purpose only, actual part may vary."
 
#275 ·
I read through the entire thread and i didn't see it mentioned, or I may have just missed it.....

When doing a 10pt in a unibody car the cage is to be mounted on 6x6x.125 plates that are welded to the floor pans... that I understand.
But the car I have has floor pans that are a bit soft in the area where the plates would be located.
Instead of replacing the section of floor pans with sheetmetal than covering with the plate, CAN I JUST REPLACE THE SECTION OF FLOOR WITH THE 6X6 PLATE?
Or my other thought (IF LEGAL) is to run 2x3 (2 wide 3 tall) from the 2x3 subframe connector outboard to the inner rocker panel THEN MOUNT THE CAGE ON TOP OF 2x3 OUTRIGGERS, these outriggers would be fully welded to the floor, the frame connectors, the rockers, and the front or rear subframes accordingly..

Your input is appreciated.
 
#277 ·
25.5 cage specs when it says that lower end of funny car cage bar 41B "MAY" attach to bar 15, inner frame 2A, inner funny car bar 42A, inner frame rail 38A.

Since it says MAY and not MUST can i run this bar down to my bar #1 (main crossmember).

My #1 bar runs inside the car with a hump over the tunnel i want to attach it right on that hump.
 
#282 ·
I will be putting a 8.50 moly cage in a 64 fairlane (unibody). I built 2x3 thru the floor subframe connectors that sit against against the rocker panels and are welded into the torque boxes. I am planning for my main hoop and a pillar bars to weld to the 2x3. My main question is about the kickers that come off the main hoop. If I recall correctly, the book says that these kickers should be tied into the subframe connectors. I obviously can't do that. Do I have to have them? If so, can they just be welded to 6x6 plates? Do they have to go all the way to the trans tunnel? I am keeping the back seat, and want to make the cage as unobtrusive as possible.
 
#283 · (Edited)
how do you have the 2x3 attached to the factory rear frame rails? are they welded to the factory front sub frame? edit, I reread it and see you wrote that they are into the torque boxes, most people run the connecters inboard right off the rear frame rails then your down tube could weld right to the sub frame connectors
 
#284 ·
when i did my fox i run 2x2 thru floor subframes with the same 2x2 outriggers for hoop and door bars. I was told upon completion that i still had to have a 6x6 plate attached to each outrigger per the rule book so i bent my 6x6 up 2" on each end and welded everything up solid. Just my 2 cents
 
#286 ·
Yes, I am referring to the "D" bars. I need to get a new book, but in my 09 book in Section 19 the graphic of the 8.50 cages says:

"D- 1 1/4" x 0.58" CM or .118 MS mandatory when main hoop is welded to plates on the floor; must be connected to subframe."

Also in general regulations Section 4:11

" "D" bar installation for full bodied cars: ........For rear wheel-drive cars, with neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheelwells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum) and rocker/sill boxes, the 1 1/4-inch x 0.58-inch CM (.118-inch MS) "D" bars may be welded to conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch plates attached to the driveshaft tunnel.”

In the full bodied cars section in 4:11 it also says:

“On Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted), roll cage may be bolted or welded to the floor/rocker box via 6-inch x 6-inch x .125” steel plates similar to the roll-bar attachment requirements of paragraph 4:10, page 214. Unless attaching to the OEM floor or frame, the minimum requirements for a frame member to which a roll-cage member is attached are 1 5/8-inch x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2-inch x 2-inch x 0.058 MS or CM Rectangular.”

This is what has me confused. The first statement says it is mandatory when the main hoop is connected to plates on the floor, and must be connected to the subframe. My main hoop will be connected to a 2 x 3 rocker/sill bar. Is the D bar even required?

The second statement regarding the trans tunnel references having no subframe connectors, stock rocker/sill boxes, and OEM floor from firewall to rear of the trunk. When I did my mini-tub, I moved the stock rear frame rails in-board, reworked the trunk floor, beefed up the rear torque boxes, and raised the rear portion of the driveshaft tunnel. With these modifications, I don’t think my floor would be considered OEM.

The third statement says floor plate mounting is only acceptable in a unibody car if you have a stock floor and firewall. I have a 5” setback in my firewall, and thus why I chose to put in the 2x3 “Frame Member” for mounting the cage.
 
#287 ·
ive welded them to the trans tunnel with no issues.

"D-1 1/4" x .058 CM (.118" MS) mandatory when main hoop is welded to plates on the floor and/or rocker/sill in lieu of frame; D-bars must be attached to frame, subframe, subframe connectors, or OEM trans tunnel."

which is worded weird if it has a frame it's not required to have the "D" bars, they are only reqiured on unibody cars that have main hoop "welded to to plates on the floor" if your main hoop is welded to 2 X 3" tube one could argue you don't need them to meet the cert requirement.....this is a situation where it depends on what rules the cert inspector uses his, or NHRA's...
 
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