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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#209 ·
Yeah go to the subframe connectors. I had mine on a 6x6 plate on the drive shaft tunnel and was told to move them to the subframe conecters.
 
#210 ·
May be a stupid question but.... Laying out the cage in my e36 bmw coupe. I need to make a front mount for my ladder bars and I plan to use the same tube as my cage for it. After laying it all out, the front ladder bar mount will end up being directly below where I plan to land the main hoop. Can I weld in the ladder bar mount (essentially a tube cross member) into the inside of the sub frame with plates. Then when the time comes for the cage can I land the main hoop on this bar instead of 6x6 plates on the floor? In my head its seems like landing on the tube would be stronger....Just not sure on the rules for that. I could also land my d bars on the same cross member if it was allowed.

thanks
 
#213 ·
That was my plan. Got my plates ready to be put on the inside of the vertical unibody part. Now. About the kickers. Can they come back at all? My 2x3" 4 link crossmember is about 16" rearward of the main hoop and I want to put a pair of Kirkey's in the middle of the rear seat. If the kickers can come back and in, it will work. I will need as much room as I can get, and running the kickers straight under the main hoop will almost block off the rear seat portion.
 
#215 ·
Anyone got a idea of the weight difference between a chrome moly 25.5 compared to a mild steel in a stock bodied/floor 83 AMC Spirit ? I would say similar to a 83 Ford fox body..
you will save about 40%
 
#217 ·
Subframe connectors arent required untill you get to 25 spec stuff. and the its either 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 depending on the spec and how its built. But if square tube 2 x 2 min. 1 3/4" round is fine but make sure it's .120 wall if mild or .083 if moly
 
#218 ·
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but hoping some Fox Body guys can chime in. When upgrading from 8.50 cert to a 25.5 cert or greater with a funny car cage, are you guys having to extend the steering shaft out?? Right now, I have a Strange steering wheel with removable hub, but in the stock location.
 
#219 ·
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but hoping some Fox Body guys can chime in. When upgrading from 8.50 cert to a 25.5 cert or greater with a funny car cage, are you guys having to extend the steering shaft out?? Right now, I have a Strange steering wheel with removable hub, but in the stock location.
depends on if you move the seat back or not. the location of the steering wheel doesn't really have anything to do with the steering. it has to do with what is comfortable for you, if it fits you in the stock location cool if not, move it.
 
#220 ·
There's some good info here guys.

Heres a not so technical question.

What are the most common bells and whistles so to speak. I'm getting ready to have a cage put in my car and I was just wondering about all the little things that you over look in the beginning stages but would be nice when you are putting it all back together. In other words. tabs for ground wires if you have a battery in the truck or tabs or an electrical panel up under the dash etc... Anything for fire extinguisher mounting... weight bars and or ballast adjustment... Racepak mounting and wiring etc...
 
#222 ·
#225 ·
I purchased a car several years ago with a NHRA 7.5 cert. and tag. Not going anywhere near that now. Question is would the car still pass the cert or would I have to make a lot of changes. Car hasn't been hurt (or even run much) since it was certified.
 
#229 ·
I bought a foxbody with a 10pt/8.50 cert cage already in it.
It has factory seats and it has me sitting too close to the steering wheel for my comfort.(im 6'1") Its gonna be a street/strip car.

My question is, can i replace the bar that runs behind the seats with one that runs back at about a 30 degree angle about 6" then across to give me some room to slide the seat back further? or does it have to be straight? Ive searched on here already and it looks like it cant be removable so im just looking for some options.
 
#234 ·
LSX I know its been said before but for the 35 bucks for the book it tells you everything! I would be lost without it on the updates Im doing to my car now. You forget one bar or tie one in in the wrong spot...its a fail and you now have a 8.50 cage.
 
#235 ·
are there any downsides, as far as strength goes, to the bolt in door bars for a 10 pt cage? Also if they allow bolt in door bars why not a bolt in crossbar for the main hoop. I'd like to keep the fuction of the rear seat on the street car. I've thought about a bolt in crossbar with a threaded adjustable end. Kinda like a lower control arm. It could be bolted in then turn a few rounds on the adjuster and it's tight.
 
#236 ·
I have a Question that I have been having a difference of opinion and clarification about concerning the Harness, or Crossbar of the main hoop. At what height should this be at when your harness is to be attached to it.
 
#241 ·
the cage doesn't HAVE to be on 6x6 plates if it lands on top of a x member. if your main hoop lands in the #1 bar (the rear crossmember) there doesn't need to be a plate. if your A-pilar bars (#'s 12A and 12B) land one the front crossmember (#'s 6A and 6B) they don't need a plate.

it's all in the 25.5 spec. i never use floor plates in a 25.? spec cage for any of the bars.
 
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