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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#59 ·
is covering the heater core area in a Gbody chevy considered altering the firewall? that is the only modifiction made to my firewall. it is probably 1 to 2 sq.ft in total. my floor pan is stock. i do not have a dash bar but the cage is 14 pt. with overhead hoop and was cert'd to i think 7.50 in 1999. will it cert to 8.50 now without a dash bar? any help would be appreciated
 
#60 ·
If you were to cover the hole that the core/hoses ran through, I would cut out some sheetmetal and weld in in place. Flap disc it smooth and you shouldn't have any issues. Most of the firewall issues is with entire firwalls that have been replaced or a large portion of the firewall.
 
#68 ·
from all the research I have done, no.

I have a question while on topic, I have 2x3 outriggers in place welded into the factory floor pans and mated to the to the factory rocker box and a 2x2 through the floor frame tie. what would be the required thickness for the 2x3 to get to an 8.50 cert?
 
#74 ·
Just wanted some clarification on an 8.50 cage.

Rocker bars are only required on modified floor pan unibody cars correct? If I have a stock floor pan they are not needed?

Second, do the side bars have to intersect that a-pillar bars?
 
#76 ·
Just wanted some clarification on an 8.50 cage.

Rocker bars are only required on modified floor pan unibody cars correct? If I have a stock floor pan they are not needed?

Second, do the side bars have to intersect that a-pillar bars?
the a pillar needs to be attached to the floor plate then notch and weld the door bar to the a pillar up enough to weld the bottom side or have land on both the plate and the tube hope this makes sense
 
#77 ·
A newb here, yep, already checked into the newb thread. A couple of quick questions on a backhalf / 10pt cage build in a 68 Mustang Coupe. For background information stock floorpans have been removed from the stock seat risers backward. Everything forward (floor/firewall) is unmodified and will remain that way. The plan for the car is mid 9s.

- Front cage attachment: Can I attach to the stock floor pans using 6x6 plates or do I need to build in outriggers for this?
- Seat attachment: Can I use the stock seat pan for mounting or do I need to build in additional bracing?

The car will have sill bars installed as required as well subframe connectors that will run from the front stubs to the ladder bar crossmember.

Thanks in advance.
 
#78 ·
outrigger aren't required for cage mounting until you get into the SFI 25.X cages. For a 10 point *8.50* cage then you can mount it by welding the 6X6's to the floorpans. The seat bar isn't required but it wouldn't be a bad thing to go ahead and throw it in while you're in there. Most people think "I don't need it so I'm not putting it in". Then that freak accident happens and it all comes to "Coulda, Woulda, Shoulda" done it.
 
#79 ·
I am noodling on the seat mounting. Since I will have the sill bar running through there along the rocker and a sub frame connector, so might as well drill out the spots on the sill riser and just attach everything to the cage. I am with you on taking care of what needs to happen now rather than later - while the car is gutted, might as well do it, especially if it's safety related.
 
#81 ·
Also newb who has check in already. Question:
I purchased a certified 25.5 mustang but the cert is about to expire, I in San Antonio TX so where and when can I go to re-cert the car?, kind of pressed for time, anyone have any direction for me?
 
#84 ·
I am building an 86' Ford Ranger with a 10pt, hoping to have it certified for 8.50's. Now everything I read, and can dig up all seems to be for cars, and not something with a true frame.

Now for my question. For NHRA requirements does the cage need to tie into the frame or just be welded into the 6x6 plates? If it needs to tie into the frame, what is the spec for the tie ins? I see above about the 2x3 and 2x2 outriggers, but again that is for a 25.x spec not for an 8.50. Maybe there is no spec for trucks, or more then likely I am just blind and missed it.
 
#85 ·
Here is a list from 07 maybe one of you with more experience can update it to 2010 NHRA specs

SFI SPECIFICATIONS

Mandatory at ET (or quicker) Item SFI Spec
13.99 Drive shaft loop (slicks)
13.99 Helmet (Snell K98+)
13.49 5-pt harness (convertible) 16.1
13.49 Approved rollbar (convertible)
13.49 (IHRA) Drive shaft loop (slicks)
11.49 Drive shaft loop (street tires)
11.49 Approved flywheel & clutch (manual transmission) 1.1, 1.2
11.49 Approved protective jacket 3.2A/1
11.49 Approved roll bar for all vehicles
11.49 Approved 5-pt harness 16.1
11.49 Approved flywheel shield (manual transmission) 6.1, 6.2
11.49 (IHRA) Approved mounted fire extinguisher
11.49 (IHRA) Approved flywheel shield (automatic transmission) 4.1
10.99* Approved roll cage (convertible)
10.99 Approved harmonic balancer 18.1
10.99 Approved aftermarket axles
10.99* Approved transmission shield (automatic transmission) 4.1
10.99 (IHRA) Competition License* Class D
9.99 Approved flexplate & shield (automatic transmission) 29.1, 30.1
9.99 Approved roll cage & window net* 27.1
9.99 Master cutoff switch
9.99 Competition License Class 4, Cat. C
9.99 Chassis Certification
9.99 Approved jacket/pants/neck collar/gloves* 3.2A/5, 3.3, 3.3/1
9.00 (IHRA) Roll cage & window net
8.99 (IHRA) Competition License Class C
8.49 On-board fire system
8.49 to 7.50 Chassis certification 25.4/25.5 (3600#)
7.99 (IHRA) Competition license Class B
7.49 & quicker Chassis certification 25.1E (2800#)
7.50 & slower Chassis certification 25.2 (3200#)
7.49 Competition license Class 3, Cat. C
IHRA Pro Stock Competition license Class A
150mph + Parachute required
200 mph + Head & Neck Restraint required

* Also required for 135 MPH or faster
 
#86 ·
Gents,

Can bar 16a (door bar shoulder to feet) be bent down in middle to allow easier access (Aussie Ute / pickup so the main hoop is only just behind door opening) there is only 800mm between main hoop and front leg so sitting position is very upright and the bar ends up being very high and hard to climb over.
 
#89 ·
a 10 point chassis kit? you mean a cage or like a full tube chassis kit? if your talking a 10 point cage, mild or moly? mild $1500-1800(that includes material) moly $2000-2500(material included). if your considering a "cage kit" do yourself and the shop that does it a favor and forget the "kit" and let the shop do it.
 
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