Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
The way I read the rule book and what I was told, and I may be wrong as I'm not a chassis cert guy, is if a vehicle has a full frame, then the roll bar/cage must be welded to it and not the floor. I'm in the same boat as you and this is way I'm going. Maybe someone who certs chassis will give a definitive and answer.
Had mine done last year. You definitely need outriggers. Was told they had to be same size and thickness as the main hoop or bigger. Mine are 2 x 3 .120 wall. Call the guy that's gonna inspect it. He also told us the rear down bars to the frame could not have any bends in them (saved me some grief).
Looking at the SFI page I cant find anything for an 8.50 spec., 25.6 is the closest/slowest the specs go. Is that the spec I need to order for an 8.50 cage? I thought there were specs for slower cars?
What is someone's option with a new corvette completely stock body and frame, almost completely stock powertrain going 160 mph at 3700#
Anything other than 25.6? Seems extreme.
im about to make plans to install a 10 point in an 86 c10.
the ONLY thing confusing me, is how to actually go about measuring the main hoop to place on outriggers??
am I able to cut a square out the floor roughly where I want my main hoop to be, and just measure lets say from the bottom of the frame rail that way I have a little extra to trim off?
looking for an 8.50 cert cage and I cant stop scratching my head on this.
what are some ways you guys have tied in the main hoop, measured it, and welded it to frame outriggers??
im about to make plans to install a 10 point in an 86 c10.
the ONLY thing confusing me, is how to actually go about measuring the main hoop to place on outriggers??
am I able to cut a square out the floor roughly where I want my main hoop to be, and just measure lets say from the bottom of the frame rail that way I have a little extra to trim off?
looking for an 8.50 cert cage and I cant stop scratching my head on this.
what are some ways you guys have tied in the main hoop, measured it, and welded it to frame outriggers??
Now do all cages need to be tig welded or can they be done with a mig to a certain speed? I have a rule book somewhere but i have strategically misplaced it and cant find it. Lol. The cage i am needing will need to only cert to 8.50s and mild steel if i am able to. This is for a small block powered 70 Nova if that matters. Thanks.
for the rear bars on a pickup truck 4130 roll cage - can they go directly through the bed and weld to frame rail or is there a plate needed between frame rail and bar?
also, maximum angle is 30 degrees downward, correct?
I see no specific mentioning of outriggers in NHRA 2018 rulebook, or the IHRA online rulebook. There are references to “frame members”or fully welded in place “connectors”. The material spec for these is same as the cage (1 5/8 x .118ms or.083cm) or 2x2x.058 square ms or cm. However, I see many posts within this thread that infer outriggers must be 2x3x.120wall. Is the 2x3x.120 wall an SFI spec for 25.xcertified cages (I don’t have the sfi book)? If so, then I take it 2x2 sq is only good for NHRA / IHRA requirments slower than 10.0, faster sfi cert cages?
Also, do outriggers, on a full frame, or tube chassis vehicle need to attach to the body structure or can they end in free space (like a body mount)? If needing to attach to body structure do they need to terminate on 6x6x.125 plates like they do on a trans tunnel on a uni-body?
You are correct on this. Mine are 2x3 .120 (overkill) because they come off the framerail 14 inches and end in "free space" ,no 6x6 plates. I thought 2x2x.058 square was a little thin for a 4200lb truck.
On fox unibody cars do they classify through the floor subframes as modified floors? Would like to use the plates and just have the d bars goto to the connectors for now.
Is there any rules as far as adding a funny car cage to an 8.50 cage? I have a 25.5 book but since it's not required it's in the 8.50 there is no right or wrong correct?
Going from an 8.50 to a 7.50 "25.5" cert. there's lot more to it than just the funny car cage. If you follow the sfi book it'll tell you what all the tubes should be and the placements depending on your seat location.
If just adding the f/c cage and not worried about anything else I'd still follow the specs.
can #1 bar can b welded to rocker with a 6.5x5.5 plate instead of a 6x6? The my main hoop #10 does NOT get welded to my #1. The 6.5 x 5.5 plate it's still the same square inches as the 6x6.... Will this pass tech for 25.5 cage (7.50)? Book makes it sound like the #1 bar needs the 6x6 IF the #10 bar is welded to it.. again mine will not be so does that mean a guy can attach it how they wish? 2010 camaro, uni-body car.
As long as the surface area is at least 36in/sq, then generally it will be accepted as long as it's not something stupid like 2x18. My 25.3 passed with something like a 4.5x7ish. You can also cut and reweld the plate to match contour and get your surface area. My understanding is this is up to the discretion of the nhra inspector. I contacted mine and asked this same question, I would do the same if you have any doubt.
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