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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#540 ·
There's a whole lot of scattered information in here and I was wondering if something can get put in the first post of the thread, such that this thread is more useful.

1. Tubing diameter requirements per SFI spec (mild steel and chromoly).
2. Structural changes required, i.e. what changes are required, from one SFI spec level to the next (e.g. from 25.5 to 25.4, from 25.4-25.3, etc..)
3. The second post had some good information (the one mentioning the ET/speed criteria per Spec level.
4. Some other governing factors in order to remain compliant (when you can use swing out bars, roll bar padding, window nets, welding brackets to mount miscellaneous items, etc..)

The above I know I at least have questions for, but I'm sure a consolidated post would help get the general public informed when using this thread.
 
#555 · (Edited)
Yes 8.50 and slower 25.5 25.4 should also be good
 
#542 ·
I have a question regarding the "B" bars on an 8 point Cage (8.50).....Reading the Rule book....I dont see anything telling me what direction these need to come off at (Angle). I ask because of a 4 door vehicle and still wanting to keep it 4 door usable space. Can the bars leave the main hoop horizontal and bend down behind the rear doors? This is in an SUV for clarity....so its an open hatch area.
 
#545 ·
Great thread, I've enjoyed reading through many of the pages and posts. Question regarding a chromoly 6-point roll bar being built for a 93 convertible Mustang. Which is an optimum size for the tubing, 1 5/8" inch or 1 3/4" inch? Happy to provide any details about the combo to dial in to a decision, and apologies if this specific subtopic was covered.
 
#546 ·
Go post in the newb thread real quick before the asshats give you shit and dont help you... Its in the TOBT section.
 
#547 ·
Thanks much, Danger D. I was going to PM you to thank you offline, but didn't see it as an option. I'm not super savy when it comes to this tech stuff. Willing to learn though, and I do appreciate the heads up about the TOBT section. Still open to info from the greater team about preferences for 1 5/8" vs 1 3/4" for a chromoly 6-point roll bar. All input is welcome.
 
#553 ·
I have a 64 post nova that I would like to put a 25.3 in and was wondering if it is possible to do a 25.3 and not cut out the front floor section. i have not decided on a 275 or 315 or go to a all out big tire with aftermarket backhalf. any pics thought ideas would be helpful.it would be nice to be able to do the bare minimum in cage work to keep the car as light as possible and if need be I will add fiberglass or carbonfiber,thanks in advance
 
#557 ·
im working on a 25.5 upgrade form a certed 8.50 car. The main hoop has gussets to the floor plates on the floor because of unweldeable location. As i read the book, it mentions that gussets may be only be used in the roof structure.. are these main hoop gussets "grandfathered" into the new cert since im adding? im waiting on the tech guys return call, just thought i throw it out here
 
#558 ·
Currently building a "stock suspension" (short section of the OEM framerails retained at the front and rear, the rest is tubing) G-body for a grudge racer. Doing it per 25.3 specs, but it will not have any part of the OEM floorpans or firewall. Doing a pro-mod style firewall with integrated mid-plate. The dashbar is going to "interrupt" the a-pillar bars and will be 1⅝-.083. My question is, may I bend the dashbar forward and slightly downward and use it as part of the firewall/mid-plate upper crossmember, and not have to add an additional "stand alone" dashbar?
 
#560 ·
I have a question that I am sure has been answered in this thread. I only need a 10 pt cage to run the classes I want to but should I decide to go quicker in the future how hard will it be to convert it to 25.3 later other than welding the additional bars in? Will there be much cutting out of the 10 pt cage if it's built with the intent of going 25.3 later?
 
#561 ·
In my mind, it's always more work to go back and "add" later than it is to just put in a 25.3 in the first place. Having said that, it could be done with that in mind. The roof bars and tying in the FC cage will be really difficult later on unless you cut the floor plates and drop it all down. The rear bracing and bay bars will make that a miserable chore. I was going to do the same thing but opted to just do the 25.3.
 
G
#562 ·
Yep, same with me. Decided to just go with the 25.3 from the start. It might not be too bad if you built the cage for 25.3 minus the funny car cage and do that later. If you do, make sure you let your inspector know about your intentions to cert to 25.3 later so that he can inspect the cage to the spec and you don't have any gotchas later.
 
#565 ·
hello I am looking to start on my 68 Camaro now and have a few questions before I start. first off it is stock firewall, floors and stock rear frame with stock front sub frame.i have the 25.5C SFI book in front of me and I would just like to get some clarification. #1 the forward cross member or foot brace can it be above the floor and tied into the 6x6 plates where 12b and 17a weld to front floor plate? #2 the #1 bar or my ladderbar crossmember is welded between frame rails and then can I use 1 5/8 .083cm or 1 3/4 .134 ms from outside of frame rail to rocker? #3 when welding 6A and 6B and #1 bars to the rockers does it have to be welded straight to the rockers or can I weld a 3/16s or 1/4 plate to rocker and the weld tube to that? #4 I have looked at a ton of pics on line and with having stock floor boards can I use a under floor tubular subframe connectors so I don't have to cut the floor up and weld a block off plate on the end of the subframe and weld like 1 5/8 .083cm from the subframe and follow the floor to the rear frame and weld to it. if so can I get a few pics to show how to correctly do it. if done this way are the rules the same if u round tube or 2x3 square tube frame connectors? #5 with all the under floor frame done can u still retain the stock or aftermarket (smith racecraft) trans crossmember using 2 3/8 bolts a side.thanks in advance for the help.
 
G
#566 ·
I've got a unibody car with the factory frame all the way to the front. Getting ready to put in the forward bars from the cage to the front of the frame rails. They will really only be supporting the upper strut tower and fenders. What is the min tube size guys are using in similar construction? I am planning 1 1/2 4130.
 
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