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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#388 ·
I didn't read the whole book (post 379 that is) but yes you can update an 8.50 cage to 25.3 the main hoop doesn't have to weld to the top of the main cross member. I usually put the rear main crossmember between the main hoop in that instance. For the center frame rails if the floor isn't slotted to accept them I will take some pieces of plate and weld them to the bar and the floor. I've done several that way that have certed fine. A lot of people overthink that
 
#390 ·
I need to cut my down bars out that are in my trunk and relocate them. how do you chassis guys go about doing this ? do I try and cut close to the welds / joint on my package tray and then smooth out the welds with a grinder / flap disc ? my cage has expired but I'll need to make sure it passes when I re cert it ! .... Make sense ? this is a 8.50 10 point moly cage 1-5/8s tubing? sorry for the dumb question , thanks Jim
 
#393 ·
Questions....

I have a '75 Chevy Luv that has been a race truck for decades. Cage is 1 3/4 8 pt plus the down tubes to the rear of frame from top of cage. I would like to update to a 12 point plus funny car cage. Can all the new bars be 1 5/8 or does it still need to be 1 3/4?

I was looking at doing a whole new 12 pt. cage out of 1 5/8,but trying to save time with getting it done.
 
#401 ·
if doing a 10point cage and want to use a dash bar. would it be ok to plate the pillars and weld dash bar to that and then run pillar bars to top of dash bar and then carry on other side with short piece from bottom of dash bar to floor? this is a 4th gen Camaro. Info seems a little vague and the earlier search seems like ok to do. but just wanted to clarify and make sure it is allowed. thanks
 
#405 · (Edited)
I was trying to edit and add this and got timed out. Grrr.

As noted above, my new 25.4 book states this on dash bar;

Dash bar meets down bars;
1.25" x .058" CM, or, 1.5" x .108" MS

Dash bar interrupts;
1.5" x .065" CM, or, 1.5" x .108" MS

However, the link above states the following for 7.50 "sportsman" full bodied car, 25.4/25.5, [pasted];


For Sportsman full-bodied cars that require a roll cage (7.50
seconds and slower, including cars inspected to SFI25.4 or 25.5): If the windshield/roof bars are interrupted by the dashbar, then either the entire dash bar must be minimum 1 1/2-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) or the entire dash bar must be minimum 1 1/4-inch x .058-inch CM (.118-inch MS) and must be braced with gussets to both the upper and lower sections of each windshield/roof bar. The gussets may be either 1.75-inch x 1.75-inch x .110-inch (with one 1/2-inch-diameter and two 5/16-inch-diameter holes maximum) 4130 CM or MS plate (triangle shaped) or 3/4-inch x.049-inch CM (.118-inch MS) tubing at least 4 inches long. An interrupted windshield/roof bar is defined as one that has been completely severed into upper and lower
sections/pieces and then the sections/pieces are welded to the dash bar.

There is nothing in the $38 SFI book on keeping to 1.25" and adding gussets if the dash bar interrupts the down bars. Nothing about gussets at all. The book says .108" mild steel, NHRA says .118".

Sure would be nice to know who's right. NHRA, or the folks that sell the spec book.

Dave
 
#415 ·
I used 1.625 for the dashbar on this build, I will say doing this way makes the fabrication end a lot simpler and breaks the cage into smaller easier sections to work with. Really appreciate the expertise and input given here
 
#416 ·
With driver in driving position, helmet must be in front of main
hoop. If helmet is behind or under main hoop, additional tubing,
same size and thickness as roll cage, must be added to protect
driver.

Can some one elaborate this a bit? My seat it right under the main hoop like the top back part is under it. What should be added in lieu oh having to do so.
 
#419 ·
Side bar and back bar on mine good to burn in??



yes i need to fix the damn steering on it lol
Don't see an issue with it, are you bending it around something? Seems like it will suck to get in and out of.
 
#431 ·
Hey Justin, is that quote the same for a 65 falcon sedan that I want back halved as well? I'm passing by your place Sunday with it on my way from picking the car up. Is that CM or MS? And last one, what would the total weight of a MS 25.5 cage be in this car?

Thanks!

Dave
 
#434 ·
I didn't
 
#437 ·
Hey Justin, I'm installing a 8.50 cert cage in a 4 door with swing out door bars. The main hoop sits behind the B pillar. Can the swing out door bar joint be extended out 7in from the hoop? Its to clear the front door so the bar can actually swing out. Not sure if you understand me exactly..
 
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