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Window Net Mounting

30K views 58 replies 25 participants last post by  Mike Beck 
#1 ·
I have done lots of searching about how to mount the window net but I still have a few questions as well tho.

I am looking at this G-force kit to mount the buckle at the top
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-wm1/overview/

and then I was going to custom order the net to fit and get it so I can bolt it to the cage.

Anyone have pictures of this way to mount it, or a different ideas?
 
#2 ·
I use a square net, i can get you custom though. We used a bar on the bottom that pivots and a cable and cable tie ubolt style that is legal to allow the bar to tuck down by x bar so you don't hit it.
 
#6 ·
Cable is only at bottom front. The tab on the back of the net is actually on the bar behind the seat. The small solid tube that goes through the window net is J shaped so it pivots down. S ame at the top. Use buckle in front, and when unbuckled it folds completely behind seat and down. Nice getting in and out.
 
#37 ·
This net is illigal, better get the wallet out an be safe. 2 inches from steering wheel, an mounted permanently at the bottem, no cables. I'll get Mikesina to tech you in April.

page 98 of the general regulations,2013

Window Net: If class mandates a roll cage the entry must have an SFI 27.1 saftey net properly attached. Net must be secured on inside of role cage at the bottom. The bottom can be attached with a 7/16" rod through the end, hose clamped to cage. The top may be clipped to eye bolts installed to roll bar. Net must fasten at the top and be permanently mounted to bottom. Net must extend forward to within two inches of the farthest back portion of the steering wheel
 
#8 ·
G Force= Chinese garbage. Why not buy one that's proudly Made In The USA. RJ'S is not much more $ if any than your Chinese crap plus then you won't have to make us feel sorry for when you lose your manufacturing job....
 
#10 ·
Damn! I feel bad now.I got the same one! LOL!
 
#14 ·
Keep in mind, if you order a net from stroud you wont pay any more for a custom over a standard net. They are top quality. Get your mounting system set where you want it and then order, and you're done.
 
#15 ·
The custom order net from RJS racing was the same as mail order companies ,because your getting it direct .When we built our car the 5 point seat belts cost 12 bucks less than summit and the net ( use the locking clip style top towards windshield corner ) cost the same as typical square one . Also RJS racing is local in Michigan so we picked up the items too . Here is there site http://rjsracing.com/
 
#17 ·
I used an old belt buckle, like what you linked to. I actually welded a bracket to the halo bar so that the buckle part is bolted on, this way in case the mechanism brakes, I can just unbolt it and bolt another on instead of having to cut and weld again. That said, the button is on the halo and the insert bracket is welded to the long rod. At the back part of the upper part, I just welded a tube with a bigger inside diameter so the rod would easily slide into it and have a little play for wiggle room.
Then for the bottom I think I used an old stock axle stud and welded that to the main hoop, then welded a large nut or something to the end of the bottom rod so that it would slide of the the stud on the hoop and have some play so it would drop down out of the way. I just used a double nut to lock it on the stud so I didn't have to tighten down on it and keep it from moving. Then at the front, I welded a bracket to the down bar and then used some coated cable to attach to the front of the bottom rod.

The net has to technically be inside the cage and mine is, except where I used the cable, I actually wrapped the cable around from the underside and came around the outside before hooking into the bar so that I had a little more elbow room at the bottom of the net while driving. With the net up and me in the seat, my left arm is touching it near my shoulder.

 
#20 ·
I used an old belt buckle, like what you linked to. I actually welded a bracket to the halo bar so that the buckle part is bolted on, this way in case the mechanism brakes, I can just unbolt it and bolt another on instead of having to cut and weld again. That said, the button is on the halo and the insert bracket is welded to the long rod. At the back part of the upper part, I just welded a tube with a bigger inside diameter so the rod would easily slide into it and have a little play for wiggle room.
Then for the bottom I think I used an old stock axle stud and welded that to the main hoop, then welded a large nut or something to the end of the bottom rod so that it would slide of the the stud on the hoop and have some play so it would drop down out of the way. I just used a double nut to lock it on the stud so I didn't have to tighten down on it and keep it from moving. Then at the front, I welded a bracket to the down bar and then used some coated cable to attach to the front of the bottom rod.

The net has to technically be inside the cage and mine is, except where I used the cable, I actually wrapped the cable around from the underside and came around the outside before hooking into the bar so that I had a little more elbow room at the bottom of the net while driving. With the net up and me in the seat, my left arm is touching it near my shoulder.

Tracks around here would give you shit for the cable being on the outside of the door bar, thats how i had mine and they said change it.
 
#19 ·
To those with the tapered nets, don't they start to slide up the bottom (towards the narrower end) when pushing out on it? Having wadded up a car at the top end, and put my net to a test, I like having my net extra tight.
 
#21 ·
I have done lots of searching about how to mount the window net but I still have a few questions as well tho.

I am looking at this G-force kit to mount the buckle at the top
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-wm1/overview/

and then I was going to custom order the net to fit and get it so I can bolt it to the cage.

Anyone have pictures of this way to mount it, or a different ideas?
I don't have any pictures, but I like getting the custom made nets that fit your primary door bar. Stroud will make you any thing you want and put grommets anywhere you want them. I always put small weld-ins about 4'-6" apart on nthe inside of the main hoop and going down the primary door bar. Put a buckel at the top front of the net for the buckel mount. Doing it this way there is no rods, brackets or tabs of anykind to crawl over when getting in and out.
 
#22 ·
I can also get you custom nets in any color. I use tie wraps to keep it from sliding on the bars that slide through the net.
 
#29 ·
Was this the NHRA rulebook? I don't see any such prohibition, unless you were talking about using cables with a clip-on latch.

Here is the section:
6:3 WINDOW NET
An SFI 27.1 ribbon-type or mesh-type window net is mandatory on
any full-bodied car running 7.49 (*4.49) or quicker. For full-bodied
cars running 7.50 (*4.50) to 9.99 (*6.39) or if vehicle runs 135 mph
or faster, a ribbon-type or SFI 27.1 mesh-type window net is
mandatory unless otherwise specified by Class Requirements. SFI
27.1 window net, when required, must be updated at two-year
intervals from the date of manufacture. Window net must be
securely mounted on the inside of the roll cage, with the permanent
attachment at the bottom. All attachment points must be designed
in an attempt to protect the driver and avoid contact with track
surface or guardwall. Eyelet clips, dogleash hardware, hose clamps,
etc. prohibited. Penetration of webbing, except as performed per
manufacturer’s instructions, prohibited. Any other modification to net
must be performed by manufacturer.
 
#38 ·
Here this may help you. I'm going to change it so I don't keep ripping my pants when I get out. I'm thinking about two pieces of triangles with holes in the center being welded to the cage and run a bolt through them for the bottom rod piece. On the inside but under side of the bar.













 
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