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Anyone want to take a look at my video and provide tips for hooking on 275's?

21K views 53 replies 17 participants last post by  THEhamBone 
#1 ·
Car is a S400 boosted stock LQ9, powerglide w/pro brake, 3.73 rear, strange single 10-ways all around, coil-over in front (150lb/14" springs), stock v8 springs in the back, wolfe anti-roll bar setup with 1/4 turn of preload on the passenger side, double adjustable uppers, single adjustable lowers, etc.

I have since purchased a "boost leash" boost controller so I should be able to better dial in power, but I wanted those who can "read between the lines" to take a look at the videos of my car spinning and see if you notice anything I could adjust/change to help plant more power on radials (besides leaving with a little less boost/rpm).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfyuMmmQDLE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2-fLWkD04w
 
#4 ·
here is what it said:

Car is a s400/lsx fox, wolfe anti-roll, strange 10 ways (frn/bck), coilover on front (150lb/14" springs), stock v8 springs on back, tubular everything, 3.73 gear, powerglide w/brake.

I have since purchased a boost leash which should help me dial down the launch power a bit, but wondering if you guys see anything that stands out as far as my suspension setup in these videos.

Thanks,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfyuMmmQDLE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2-fLWkD04w
 
#5 ·
Car is a s400/lsx fox, wolfe anti-roll, strange 10 ways (frn/bck), coilover on front (150lb/14" springs), stock v8 springs on back, tubular everything, 3.73 gear, powerglide w/brake.

I have since purchased a boost leash which should help me dial down the launch power a bit, but wondering if you guys see anything that stands out as far as my suspension setup in these videos.

Thanks,

youtubeDOTcom/watch?v=pfyuMmmQDLE
youtubeDOTcom/watch?v=m2-fLWkD04w

replace the dot with a .
 
#8 ·
#10 ·
car has gone 5.85 @ 118 w/a 1.33 60' leaving off the footbrake. that was on a th350, switched to a glide/brake and this was the first time out. seems it is not nearly as forgiving, either i leave flat and it goes slow or i leave hot and it spins.

i will try tightening it up in the rear and see how that helps, i was also thinking about adding limiters to the front. thoughts?
 
#9 ·
1st thing, it looks like you need to adjust your rear shocks. the compression is way soft. I don't know the angle of your lca's, but you have negative anti-squat now.
 
#16 ·
go out and measure them..

Measure from the floor to to the arms.. looks like the arms are going down hill from rear to body.. as in the arm is higher at the rear than it is on the body.. if you dont have multiple spots on rear to move lower arm mount.. then i would almost promise this is true.. because on a fox.. to get a good looking ride height.. the lower arms are going down hill with stock mounts.
 
#27 ·
^^^This!^^^ I noticed that myself.
 
#23 ·
you can raise ride height all you want.. if the stock locations are still being used.. you arent ever going to get it right.. the stock geometry isnt right.

Honestly.. you need to be getting ready to go to coilovers in the rear anyway.. as im sure you have already decided.. I would go ahead and get them before I did some rigging for an old worn out stock spring.

I didnt realize you were using the spring on arm.. well i didnt think about it..

going coilover will open up your options for moving arms around without changing ride height.
 
#24 ·
There are several options for the lower mounts on rear.

my favorite.. http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/Control_srm_brackets_p/tzm-icb.htm

http://www.brenspeed.com/cab005.html

http://www.brenspeed.com/555-8119.html

hell theres a bunch.. do a search on here. 100 threads about it..


Ive always just made my own holes for my uppers on the body. I make plates with 3 holes.. 1" apart and move shit around. lol.. drill em out.. and and weld the plates in.



BTW.. heres something like you were talking about for ride height with coil springs http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=848

or this one and weld it onto the arms.. http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=849

Just go all out and get these bad mofo's.. lol

http://wildridesracecars.com/store/product.php?productid=16212
 
#26 ·
I actually had coil overs on it before but they wouldn't work with my Strange shocks (the body of the shock was larger then the lakewoods). If you were going to try to do this with budget being a huge concern (dropped a TON of cash this month so far), what would be your method of attack?
 
#28 ·
on a budget.. I would buy the coilover kit for the strange shocks and put the coilover back on it for starters.

then I would raise the ride height till the lower control arms were 1/4" higher in the front.

Then I would drill new holes in my upper torque boxes that lowers the the mount 1" from stock.

If you need to skip the coilover part.. just get some poly spacer thingys or sumtin to put between body and spring to raise height.
 
#30 ·
yeah thats fine.. really should be lowered a little.. but you'll be fine.. the lowers need lowering as explained earlier.

and dont forget about the strut settings post.. thats realistically why she wont leave now.. but when she starts leaving.. with the suspension gyometry the way it is now.. get ready to buy a bumper.
 
#33 ·
Not trying to hijack here, but how do you know where you need to be with your upper location. I have racecraft upper mounts with 3 points of adjustment. How do I pick which one I need to be in ? I see how to decide for the lowers but never see anything about uppers?

Thanks,
 
#35 ·
really comes down to plotting it out.. every car is different and wants different things. depends on tire, weight, front end %.. ect ect.

For me... my starting point method is putting my IC at my CG. On a fox.. the wheel base is 100.5.. so makes for some easy math.. Say your car is 56% on the nose.. that basically means you should be able to put jackstands under your subframes at 56" and be able to "balance" the car.. that would be your balance point.. or CG. so i make my lift point (IC) come to that point..

for common theory.. without knowing other any specs.. I would say use the hole that would change a hole 1".. so on housing.. it would raise the mount 1".. on body it would lower the mount 1".

Every vehicle is different.. and everybodys method and theory is different.

BUT.. everyone agree's that stock foxbody geometry is wrong.. the IC is too far out.
 
#36 ·
all of these numbers for shock settings all depend on weight and hp of car and condition of track.... the only thing certain in this world is taxes...

you car is definitely bouncing the rear axle, once it drops a fraction of a inch you want it to stay there. you want the front to rise slowly not jump/jerk. first move of the car should be out not up.
 
#41 ·
CH height is just that. The height where the CG actually is. CG is the spot where the car balances on 3 planes. It has a horizontal and vertical dimension to indicate its location. If you tip the car on the door, the car would still balance if suspended from the CG. Generally located somewhere near the top of the shifter on many door cars.
 
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