Car is a S400 boosted stock LQ9, powerglide w/pro brake, 3.73 rear, strange single 10-ways all around, coil-over in front (150lb/14" springs), stock v8 springs in the back, wolfe anti-roll bar setup with 1/4 turn of preload on the passenger side, double adjustable uppers, single adjustable lowers, etc.
I have since purchased a "boost leash" boost controller so I should be able to better dial in power, but I wanted those who can "read between the lines" to take a look at the videos of my car spinning and see if you notice anything I could adjust/change to help plant more power on radials (besides leaving with a little less boost/rpm).
Car is a s400/lsx fox, wolfe anti-roll, strange 10 ways (frn/bck), coilover on front (150lb/14" springs), stock v8 springs on back, tubular everything, 3.73 gear, powerglide w/brake.
I have since purchased a boost leash which should help me dial down the launch power a bit, but wondering if you guys see anything that stands out as far as my suspension setup in these videos.
Car is a s400/lsx fox, wolfe anti-roll, strange 10 ways (frn/bck), coilover on front (150lb/14" springs), stock v8 springs on back, tubular everything, 3.73 gear, powerglide w/brake.
I have since purchased a boost leash which should help me dial down the launch power a bit, but wondering if you guys see anything that stands out as far as my suspension setup in these videos.
car has gone 5.85 @ 118 w/a 1.33 60' leaving off the footbrake. that was on a th350, switched to a glide/brake and this was the first time out. seems it is not nearly as forgiving, either i leave flat and it goes slow or i leave hot and it spins.
i will try tightening it up in the rear and see how that helps, i was also thinking about adding limiters to the front. thoughts?
1st thing, it looks like you need to adjust your rear shocks. the compression is way soft. I don't know the angle of your lca's, but you have negative anti-squat now.
What exactly do you mean, the rear was already setup when I got the roller, but the pinion angle has been checked and it was right on at 2*, how would the lower arms be going down hill?
Measure from the floor to to the arms.. looks like the arms are going down hill from rear to body.. as in the arm is higher at the rear than it is on the body.. if you dont have multiple spots on rear to move lower arm mount.. then i would almost promise this is true.. because on a fox.. to get a good looking ride height.. the lower arms are going down hill with stock mounts.
in the first video link above.. see how quick the front end came up? so fast it topped out to quick and upset the momentum or weight transfer.. notice soon as it tops out the rear unloads and spins?
I am at work so I'll have to get the measurements tonight, could I fab a spring spacer for the rear to raise the body vs. changing the mounting locations? (all of the mounts are the factory (reinforced) locations.
you can raise ride height all you want.. if the stock locations are still being used.. you arent ever going to get it right.. the stock geometry isnt right.
Honestly.. you need to be getting ready to go to coilovers in the rear anyway.. as im sure you have already decided.. I would go ahead and get them before I did some rigging for an old worn out stock spring.
I didnt realize you were using the spring on arm.. well i didnt think about it..
going coilover will open up your options for moving arms around without changing ride height.
hell theres a bunch.. do a search on here. 100 threads about it..
Ive always just made my own holes for my uppers on the body. I make plates with 3 holes.. 1" apart and move shit around. lol.. drill em out.. and and weld the plates in.
I actually had coil overs on it before but they wouldn't work with my Strange shocks (the body of the shock was larger then the lakewoods). If you were going to try to do this with budget being a huge concern (dropped a TON of cash this month so far), what would be your method of attack?
yeah thats fine.. really should be lowered a little.. but you'll be fine.. the lowers need lowering as explained earlier.
and dont forget about the strut settings post.. thats realistically why she wont leave now.. but when she starts leaving.. with the suspension gyometry the way it is now.. get ready to buy a bumper.
Not trying to hijack here, but how do you know where you need to be with your upper location. I have racecraft upper mounts with 3 points of adjustment. How do I pick which one I need to be in ? I see how to decide for the lowers but never see anything about uppers?
really comes down to plotting it out.. every car is different and wants different things. depends on tire, weight, front end %.. ect ect.
For me... my starting point method is putting my IC at my CG. On a fox.. the wheel base is 100.5.. so makes for some easy math.. Say your car is 56% on the nose.. that basically means you should be able to put jackstands under your subframes at 56" and be able to "balance" the car.. that would be your balance point.. or CG. so i make my lift point (IC) come to that point..
for common theory.. without knowing other any specs.. I would say use the hole that would change a hole 1".. so on housing.. it would raise the mount 1".. on body it would lower the mount 1".
Every vehicle is different.. and everybodys method and theory is different.
BUT.. everyone agree's that stock foxbody geometry is wrong.. the IC is too far out.
all of these numbers for shock settings all depend on weight and hp of car and condition of track.... the only thing certain in this world is taxes...
you car is definitely bouncing the rear axle, once it drops a fraction of a inch you want it to stay there. you want the front to rise slowly not jump/jerk. first move of the car should be out not up.
CH height is just that. The height where the CG actually is. CG is the spot where the car balances on 3 planes. It has a horizontal and vertical dimension to indicate its location. If you tip the car on the door, the car would still balance if suspended from the CG. Generally located somewhere near the top of the shifter on many door cars.
like said above too soft. what wheel you running? the rear needs to be lowered. really need some teamz or baseline stuff. go to the youtube and watch the teamz videos. they tell you what spring to use and how many coils to cut off.
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