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Old 03-20-2011, 01:51 PM   #46
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

Wow, you fucked that one up good. What block was it?
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:55 PM   #47
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

Time to go billet...
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:58 PM   #48
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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Wow, you fucked that one up good. What block was it?
dart alum..55mm raised cam...was 3 years old at the time of it death.LOL


mike,i called about a billet block and they 12000 and up...i was done asking questions at that point...a replacement block is 6200 from dart if i go back 632
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:04 PM   #49
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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i have broke a rod in a cast block and it survived...just broke a rod in my aluminum block...tell me if you think it can be fixed..







You broke a LOT more then a rod, second of all, I don't see a broken rod, but I DO see a crankshaft in two pieces.. I doubt any block woulda lived through that one.. I run aluminum rods in anything I am serious about, seems ALL the parts live better. Even the Duster that gets thousands of street miles on it has ALWAYS had GRP aluminum rods in it, and never hurt a single piece in the bottom end in over 6 years! I'm not saying it has had the same set of rods in it from the beginning, but never-the-less, always aluminum..

Many engine builders philosophy is, the aluminum rod dampens the blow to the rest of the parts in the engine, I totally agree with this concept. If a fuel car could get a steel rod to hold up, NOTHING else in the engine would, and that would be due to the aforementioned reason.

I STILL say go with an aluminum block.

Sorry to see the damage, but maybe next time an aluminum rod, and that crankshaft might still be in one piece.
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:27 PM   #50
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

Eddie, how long do you run the aluminum rods on the street? I have a fast street car (~600hp n/a SBF) that probably sees 2,000 miles of street duty and 100 passes a year, just wondering how long I could reasonably expect a set of aluminum rods to last in it.
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Old 03-20-2011, 02:34 PM   #51
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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i have broke a rod in a cast block and it survived...just broke a rod in my aluminum block...tell me if you think it can be fixed..









I would have to say that the damage would be far less if you had a Billet aluminum block.
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Old 03-20-2011, 03:01 PM   #52
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

that is the definition of catastrophic damage. lol! i would say that was a pissed off engine before it blew up.
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Old 03-20-2011, 03:27 PM   #53
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

My son likes Mega-Bolks.
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Old 03-20-2011, 04:32 PM   #54
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

rod broke first and flipped back around and stuck at the bottom of the cylinder...that locked it up instantly..tires locked up as i have a super tight converter then broke the crank at the rear rod journal...then the rear of the crank had no upport from the all the mains and broke the back of the block..my scenario of what happened within 1 second...car was on its best pass ever,happened at the shift.

big end was still on the crank,the rod was broke about 1inch from the pin...the pin and little end jammed between the other rod and the 55mm cam..that bent the cam and helped bust out the cam area..3 mains are broke out of the block.

i had a 468 long ago with a 1471 blower..it broke a 20pass old mgp blower rod...it broke the valley out of a cast iron block...so i feel any rod in a blow up can break any block.

next one will have oliver rods..i may also go smaller to lessen the rod angle and turn up the juice.still deciding.

here is a video of the destruction pass,you can hear the tires lock up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKvo1zxvdGw
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:07 PM   #55
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

Iron blocks don't move much and can handle a lot! Aluminum other than the obvious, are lighter but for consistency they are not good, unless you get a fully CNC'd version. It all depends on what you are doing.
If I"m runing in a Super NHRA class, I run an iron block, keeps me consistent. For Top Sportsman, definatley aluminum.

Of course that is just my .02
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:32 PM   #56
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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Its give and take with blocks. Iron makes more power but weigh more. Alum. weighs less but doesn't make as much power. So i guess it comes down to does the weight savings offset the power loss.
Really is that why all the pro categories use alum. just wondering? I'd like to see some data on this? Oh yeah why doesn't alum. make as much power>?
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:40 PM   #57
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

You would think that aluminum would make more power since it dissipates heat quicker????
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:49 PM   #58
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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You would think that aluminum would make more power since it dissipates heat quicker????
that is some of the downfall and the cylinders dont seal as good as cast iron...now a solid billet block might be a different story..

the reason the pro catagories use alum is the blocks they use are not made in cast iron..most of them have billet blocks...it would be cheaper to manufacture a few blocks with some nice cnc stuff than to have a complete foundry to pour cast blocks..but less billet are sold so they are expensive to help pay for the machines..my opinion..if i could afford it i would have a billet block.

pro catagories are adrl 10.5 and pro extreme type stuff...could you imagine what a cast iron 5.3 bore space 900inch motor would way?LOL
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Last edited by onefast68; 03-20-2011 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:49 PM   #59
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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Originally Posted by onefast68 View Post
dart alum..55mm raised cam...was 3 years old at the time of it death.LOL


mike,i called about a billet block and they 12000 and up...i was done asking questions at that point...a replacement block is 6200 from dart if i go back 632
Try giving Naylor Racing Engines a call...I got a very good price from him and it was drop shipped to my engine guy. It was a brand new Brodix fill 55mm raised cam aluminum block and it was $4,800 I believe including shipping. He also sells Dart etc. but a very nice guy to deal with. He advertises on Racing Junk also.
http://www.naylorracingengines.com/1.html

I'd seriously consider aluminum rods with heavy nitrous use. They take a lot of shock out of the system, easier on the crank etc. Talk with GRP or MGP about it.
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:53 PM   #60
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Default Re: Bolcks; Aluminum vs. cast iron

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Originally Posted by onefast68 View Post
that is some of the downfall and the cylinders dont seal as good as cast iron...now a solid billet block might be a different story..

the reason the pro catagories use alum is the blocks they use are not made in cast iron..most of them have billet blocks...it would be cheaper to manufacture a few blocks with some nice cnc stuff than to have a complete foundry to pour cast blocks..but less billet are sold so they are expensive to help pay for the machines..my opinion..if i could afford it i would have a billet block.

pro catagories are adrl 10.5 and pro extreme type stuff...could you imagine what a cast iron 5.3 bore space 900inch motor would way?LOL
The thread title should of been Billet Alum vs Cast Alum vs Cast Iron? LOL
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