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***Roll Cage FAQ's***

404K views 601 replies 194 participants last post by  Deleted member 74842 
#1 ·
Thanks to Gilsbach for making this a sticky.

Everyone seems to have a lot of the same questions about cages and chassis' on a regular basis. Let's see if we can put them all in here so everyone has one central place to look.
 
#166 ·
Went and picked up the tubing this morning, crawled into what was once the backseat like a Cirque De Solie acrobat and figured I could get the torch up enough on one side to feed it from the other side and actually filled it all in anyway.

Should pass no issue now.




I hope :)
 
#167 ·
My question was asked by someone else in here but never really answered. Converting a 6 point moly to a 10 point. My existing door bars are the correct height and welded to the frame rail. Can the new A-post bars come down and be welded to the frame right in front of the existing door bar? Or I could actually notch the A-post bar and contact the door bar and frame together. Is this a legal connection or do I have to cut the door bar out and re-connect it to the A-post bar after it's in? Thanks for the help, hope I explained this clearly.
 
#169 ·
I outlined the bar in question in red in the picture below. I am converting a 10pt to 25.5 and was wondering the specs of this bar.
What are the rulings for this bar? does it have a certain location it needs to be in comparison to the driver? I see some really close to the main hoop and some are farther out, just wondering the story on this one, and no I won't buy the book. :p
Thanks

 
#176 ·
I still don't get why you don't want to get the book, but presumably you are working with someone on the chassis that has it?

As far as the position of that bar, this was discussed recently in this thread:
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167144 - starting at post #937

It is clear to me that even with the allowance for only the "forehead" part of the helmet, many cars do not pass this rule. Next time you are watching NHRA Pro Stock on TV look how far back their FC cage bars are.
 
#177 ·
Cool thanks for the link/info, that is how I thought it was supposed to be but as you said from all the cars I've seen around told me otherwise!

"When required, the Forward Outer Funny Car Cage Bar (#40A) and the Forward Inner Funny Car Cage Hoop (#41B) must be fully forward of the driver’s helmet."
 
#178 ·
Ok installing a MS cage and plan on getting a 8.50 cert, buy was wondering if I can TIG the visible welds and mig the hard to reach places. I would rather look at a TIG weld than a mig weld, but want to make sure it will pass. Otherwise I'll just mig the whole thing. Thanks.
 
#181 ·
I have an existing Wolfe Chromoly 10 point cage
I am redoing the trunk area.
I never like how my fabricator attached my rear bars (made a box welded to the frame)
I bought a JD32 bender and plan to replace the rear frame with mild steel tubing.

Well to the question... I will run the new tubing under the rear bars but they will be to short to notch.
Can I add a 6" extension/coupler to the rear bars to make them longer. (I will use bigger tubing so the original rear bars go inside the new extension)

Will this be legal? Ideas?



 
#182 ·
#183 ·
I have a 1969 Chevelle and had a couple questions. i want it certified to 8.50 and currently have a 6 point CM rollbar. When I say 6 point it has the main hoop, the door bars and the two that go into the trunk. To make it legal for 8.50 since its a full frame car does it need the kickers off the main hoop to the floor pan? And I've seen this question posted but not answered, can the a-pillar bars come down and sit on the top of the bends of the door bars where they turn down into the floor and connect to the frame?
 
#184 ·
I posted the same question in this thread. I just had mine done. Had 6 point moly and added on to make 8.50 cert. He brought the A-post bars down and joined them at the joint where the door bars meet the frame. It certed just fine. You do not need the diagonal bars on a full framed car. You also do not have to put in the dash bar if you have a stock full firewall.
 
#189 ·
Actually I won't be going any further than the 8.50 cert. I drive the car on the street more than at the track and I'm not going to put an intercooler on it and hack the car up to fit the intercooler in it. This is all for fun in this car, mostly street. shooting for 20psi boost with meth injection. And still runs on pump gas.
 
#190 ·
I just got my sfi 25.3 spec book and this will be my first cage. my question is does the tube have to be the diameter specified? for example the main hoop is 1 5/8 and most of the funny car cage bars only have to be 1 1/2 but can it be done all in 1 5/8 as long as the tubing is bigger than the spec size is it ok?
 
#191 ·
I just got my sfi 25.3 spec book and this will be my first cage. my question is does the tube have to be the diameter specified? for example the main hoop is 1 5/8 and most of the funny car cage bars only have to be 1 1/2 but can it be done all in 1 5/8 as long as the tubing is bigger than the spec size is it ok?
yes, those are minimums.
 
#192 ·
Goal is high 7's low 8's, limited street/X275 build, shooting for target weight of 2000-2100#'s without driver (turbo 4 cyl combo). Im up in the air between 25.2 or 25.3, mainly concerned about resale value and weight. You would never put 1000+ #'s of weight in it to meet minimum weight, so is it worth going to the 25.3? Whats a guesstimate at the weight difference of the cage between 25.2/25.3? Thoughts/concerns, am I over thinking it?
Thanks
Justin
 
#193 ·
Goal is high 7's low 8's, limited street/X275 build, shooting for target weight of 2000-2100#'s without driver (turbo 4 cyl combo). Im up in the air between 25.2 or 25.3, mainly concerned about resale value and weight. You would never put 1000+ #'s of weight in it to meet minimum weight, so is it worth going to the 25.3? Whats a guesstimate at the weight difference of the cage between 25.2/25.3? Thoughts/concerns, am I over thinking it?
Thanks
Justin
there really isn't much difference between the two. i have a car that i built and had certed a few months before 25.3 came out and we dual certed it 25.2 and 25.5 we recerted it about 5 or 6 months ago and it certed 25.3 with out any changes. i think your over thinking it a little. what kind of car? you may not put 1000lbs in it but if you sell it they may want to.
 
#194 ·
Its a 88 Chrysler Conquest/Mitsubishi Starion. I think im just going to go 25.3 on it. If the 4cyl thing didnt pan out for some reason (ive done a few of 700-800 HP ones, but not a 1000+ FWHP yet), I would probably do a viper engine with twins and I would definitely have to be 3400#+ to class race. I absolutely dont want to do anything twice/upgrade in the future, other than possibly the motor. I appreciate your time.
Justin
 
#202 ·
that is the difference. tubing is measured on the OD and pipe on the ID. if you measure tubing on the OD it will measure a nominal size (I.E. 1 1/2, 1 5/8"....etc) pipe will measure close but not quite. i had a guy bring in some pipe he wanted bent for a rock crawler it was 1 1/2" pipe (don't recall if it was sch40 or 80) it measured 1.682 so i sold him some tubing.
 
#203 ·
On that note, all the pipe we buy for structural and handrail is not really pipe but ASTM A500tube made to pipe size(not sutable for pressure vessels). Same as regular tubing so I would think with a mill sheet it should be legal. Its clean outside unlike black pipe but measures like pipe.
 
#208 · (Edited)
What are the requirements for the 2 stabilizer bars of the main hoop that go diagonally to a 6x6 plate.
Can they get mounted so that the top attaches at the intersection of the main hoop/crossbar and the bottom goes like 6" diagonally forward and attaches to a plate were the subframe connector is through the floor?

I think it may be better in addition to allowing foot room for a rear seat passenger if any.
 
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