I had one like that. I drained my oil (mine was on the bottom) the reason for draining.
Scuffed it up with sandpaper cleaned it with carb cleaner and put RTV on it, and let it dry overnght.
I tried JB weld but it still leaked.
unfortunately the only positive way to fix the pan is take it off and tig it up. soft solder will work but the metal needs to be oil free and clean. i doubt any epoxies or silcone type sealers will work unless all oil residue is removed from the inside of the pan.
Drain oil, let sit overnight with drainplug out...clean area well w/brake kleen & some air pressure....Score the area with a grinding disk, say 36 grit, and apply either "Panel Bond" (3M-8116) or 3M catylized seam sealer (2 part). Both products are designed to adhere too bare steel, aluminum, Wood,....whatever. Gaurantee positive results.....
Looks like burn-through from a divider welded in there. If it leaks now and the impression is as visible as it looks in that one pic, it will tear in the future.
i would call the company you got it from and tell them send a return tag with my new undamaged pan. that cost too much to let go. why would you even consider sealant on a new pan ? or is it new to you but used . if thats the case pull it and weld it that way you wont have to worry later
It is a new Milodon pan that I bought a couple of years ago. I am finally getting the thing ready to drive. I started the engine a couple of times last Saturday to make some adjustments. So last night I noticed oil on my garage floor. I wiped the oil pan down because I couldn't detect exactly where it was coming from. Today after work I saw exactly where it is coming from.
It's a new build with a Procharger that has taken me a while to get going. I really don't want to take this thing out to change the oil pan.
If it is truly a small pinhole. Take a good sharp center punch. Use the punch to distort the metal around the hole. Don't go crazy it only takes a little bit to seal it up. I have done this on hydraulic tanks many times.
Some brake cleaner and ultra black will take care of that until you need to remove the pan for service. put it on at least 3/16 thick and well past leaking area.
no different than using rtv for intake manifold ends
Drain oil, clean the area with a alcohol based de-greaser, apply heat, let cool, de-grease apply heat, repeat this process several times to remove as much oily residue as you can..... then scuff with 80 grit sand paper apply flux and silver solder with a torch.
Heck, just weld it on the car.....Hook a vaccum pump up too the crankase and put a tack-weld on the pinhole...There will be nothing falling into the pan and no fire.
I just had to re diaper a weeping weld on our repaired pan, I did it fast and dirty with a flux core mig so it's not to surprising that it weeps a little. Any I clean it real good with brake clean, then smear with RTV thick and wide. Push a folded up blue shop towel into the RTV and cover with extreme duty racing tape, make sure to tape well past the edges of the towel. Normaly lasts a couple of months, long enough to find time to break out the welder and fix it right.
I know a guy that claims he cracked a pan from rail to rail and fixed it with jb weld and a shop towel. Says he run it most of the season like that, I tried it once but it didn't work for me.
I had a similar problem after welding a drain plug in my trans pan. I cleaned it up with brake clean and used JB Stick to seal it up. It's been almost a year now with no problems.
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