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Best way to repair pin hole leak in new oil pan.

9K views 35 replies 27 participants last post by  cepx111 
#1 ·
It is coming from the weld. This is a brand new oil pan. What is a good way to seal this up from the outside and still in the car?
 
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#5 ·
unfortunately the only positive way to fix the pan is take it off and tig it up. soft solder will work but the metal needs to be oil free and clean. i doubt any epoxies or silcone type sealers will work unless all oil residue is removed from the inside of the pan.
 
#9 ·
Drain oil, let sit overnight with drainplug out...clean area well w/brake kleen & some air pressure....Score the area with a grinding disk, say 36 grit, and apply either "Panel Bond" (3M-8116) or 3M catylized seam sealer (2 part). Both products are designed to adhere too bare steel, aluminum, Wood,....whatever. Gaurantee positive results..... ;)
 
#12 ·
i would call the company you got it from and tell them send a return tag with my new undamaged pan. that cost too much to let go. why would you even consider sealant on a new pan ? or is it new to you but used . if thats the case pull it and weld it that way you wont have to worry later
 
#13 ·
It is a new Milodon pan that I bought a couple of years ago. I am finally getting the thing ready to drive. I started the engine a couple of times last Saturday to make some adjustments. So last night I noticed oil on my garage floor. I wiped the oil pan down because I couldn't detect exactly where it was coming from. Today after work I saw exactly where it is coming from.

It's a new build with a Procharger that has taken me a while to get going. I really don't want to take this thing out to change the oil pan.

Where can I get those products you guys speak of?
 
#14 ·
i have heard of this happening with a few pans from milodon. In the local speed shop the other day some guy was saying the same thing.

I would call and bitch
 
#25 ·
just the fact that you are asking kinda means that you want a shortcut instead of replacing the pan..

...so just remove it and weld it..

not many sealers will last a full length of time..but if need be, then clean as spoken about in prior posts and plop some goo on there and run it.

in this sort of thing, a band aid fix is just going to cause you to curse at it later and have to pull it and weld it anyways...
 
#27 ·
Heck, just weld it on the car.....Hook a vaccum pump up too the crankase and put a tack-weld on the pinhole...There will be nothing falling into the pan and no fire.
 
#32 ·
I just had to re diaper a weeping weld on our repaired pan, I did it fast and dirty with a flux core mig so it's not to surprising that it weeps a little. Any I clean it real good with brake clean, then smear with RTV thick and wide. Push a folded up blue shop towel into the RTV and cover with extreme duty racing tape, make sure to tape well past the edges of the towel. Normaly lasts a couple of months, long enough to find time to break out the welder and fix it right.

I know a guy that claims he cracked a pan from rail to rail and fixed it with jb weld and a shop towel. Says he run it most of the season like that, I tried it once but it didn't work for me.
 
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