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I hate ice(dams)

6K views 45 replies 32 participants last post by  IHI 
#1 ·
I spent 7 hours, on Saturday, removing a massive ice dam from my back porch. The porch measures 40 foot wide by 20 foot. Once we chipped enough away, It measured 38" thick. With a good 3' of snow on it. We took the snow off with a roof razor. Then used an air chisel to chip away at it. Lucky for me, I have a Daughter-in law(she is 27), that loves walking around on the roof. So, we took turns, with the chisel. I have no idea how much the ice and snow weighed, but from the soreness in my arms from picking it up and throwing it into the back yard. It had to be a lot.
Damn! I hate Winter! Come on Spring.
 
#4 ·
I have the same problem. It is actually caused by an attic that isnt vented properly and/or not enough insulation in the attic. Take a peek in your attic and look at the roof decking and rafters, theyll probably be wet with condensation... not good. Fairly easy fix. Ill be doing it this spring when I replace the roof. Ill add some vents and blow in some insulation.
 
#5 ·
Get a roof rake. When it snows pull off the first 2-3 feet. No ice dams. Problem with dams is the water cannot drain off the roof and runs back up under the shingles causing roof and or ceiling problems. Roof rakes are available at ACE hardware and will reach onto 2nd floor roofs. Cost about $50.00.
 
#8 · (Edited)
All the build up was caused when I was in Italy for a month. We had some very nasty storms with alot of snow and high winds out of the West. I usually keep up with removing the snow. The front of the house had very little snow and no ice.
 
#26 ·
They claim properly vented attics dont damn. Is that true?
Yes..........Licensed roofing contractor since 1991 with over 11,000 completed roofs.

Ice daming is the result of improper ventilation.


You can pile insulation 3' deep in your attic and still have it if there isnt adequate soffit intake air flow and roof ventilation...I prefer shinglevent 2 ridgevent for roof venting

A general way to see if your roof is ventilated properly is if snow doesn't melt quickly

I can drive down my street and tell which of my neighbors have a well ventilated attic...........the roofs that have snow on them are in good shape.........where it has melted they have problems............they're heating their attic and this can cause daming.

A properly vented attic will be as close to the outside temp as possible
 
#15 ·
Still do not understand why nobody has ever developed heated gutters:confused::confused:

Ice dams are caused by heat loss usually up the wall to the attic space above. A well insulated envelope (across the sealing) with adequate ventilation and the problem will be minimal. I would not ever do a roof job though with out 6 feet of snow & ice shield.

Some people put heated wires on roof. You can also throw ice melt up on to the roof to help. You can also put stainless panels for the first 3 feet of the roof back from the eaves
 
#27 ·
Still do not understand why nobody has ever developed heated gutters:confused::confused:

Ice dams are caused by heat loss usually up the wall to the attic space above. A well insulated envelope (across the sealing) with adequate ventilation and the problem will be minimal. I would not ever do a roof job though with out 6 feet of snow & ice shield
Heated gutters wouldn't help ice daming..........that is occurring ON the roof not after it has drained off

I've done at least 10,000 roofs without using any ice guard..........New homes from 120k-1.5 million............It wasn't code here until a few years ago

Ice guard isn't needed for a properly designed and ventilated roof......It can be used to crutch a poor design and unskilled roofer......
 
#17 ·
You should NEVER chip the ice away from your composite(asphalt) shingle roof with out putting something on it to break the bond between the ice and the shingles. It will take the shingles with it as it falls to ground. Shovel all of the snow off from it first and then take an ice pick or something sharp that will fracture the ice. You are not trying to remove the ice with the pick but just put cracks in it that will alllow the next step to work. Once all of the snow is removed and you have fractured the ice with the sharp object then spread some sort of "ice melt" over the ENTIRE section that has ice and also behind where the dam ends. Once it starts to melt it wil flow underneath the dam and start breaking the bond between the ice and the shingles. You will hear it working, once it stops making noise, add some more ice melt. Let it sit for a while and then, only then hit it with an 8# sledge or something similar. The ice will then start to come off like water and you will stil have shingles left on the edge of your roof for the remainder of the winter.
 
#18 ·
Blah, blah, blah...Just enlarge that pic of Jungle Pam!
 
#19 ·
I don't like the roof razor. On my roof rake wheels I wrapped them in a few layers of electrical tape to protect the shingles.
Never chip ice off shingles. Ice melt has already been suggested. Another idea is put deck screws into the ice and lay heat tape above the screws on the ice. Ice melt in the gutters first. Get the gutters and down spouts clear. Then melt the ice. I keep the edges clear and never have troubles.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I notice today, first time in 12 years in the house, that our east facing gutters in the front all have ice dams, they were free flowing in the late fall. No trees to get them clogged either. Fucking sucks.

We do have a roof ridge vent
 
#37 ·
Venting isn't "always" the problem, how would you explain ice dams on structures with no purpose but COLD storage. Some years the way the ice, the snow, the sun come and go will play as much or more a part of ice dams than venting ever will.

I agree in residential homes being lived in that proper intake/exhaust is of utmost importance, and will cause ice damming....but it's not always THE answer, mother nature plays a huge factor too.
 
#43 ·
Here's a no damage way to remove the ice buildup, or at least cut enough channels in it to drain the backed up water:

1.) Put on your oilskins. (you're going to get wet)

2.) Disconnect the hot water line to your washing machine, and hook it up to your garden hose.

3.) Climb up your ladder and use the hot water to "burn" channels in the ice to allow the backed up water to drain out from behind the dams.

If yuo have enough hot water you can use this method to loosen chunks of the dams and let them fall off the edge. I've done it this way on my old house and it works slick but, as I said you will get wet! Good luck,

DFG
 
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