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What is Racepak Smartwire?

33K views 38 replies 15 participants last post by  11nos 
#1 ·
As Racepak works to release the new Smartwire power control module, I figured it would be a great time to explain some of the features and benefits, while uncovering some of the mystery behind it.

I will break it up in various posts giving example of how the module can be used in different applications. Feel free to ask about your particular scenario and I would be happy to explain how Smartwire can help make your electrical system Smart!

In its most simple form Racepak’s Smartwire is a 30 output power center. Unlike its competition it does not have any fuses or relays to fail, no, its much smarter than that. Instead it uses solid state technology to constantly monitor every outputs current and load.

If a standard fuse blows that circuit is rendered useless until the user replaces the fuse. Smartwire can protect the circuit but also retry the circuit a number of times to see if it really failed or if it was just a power surge.

Of those 30 channels 8 of them are designed for high current (20 amps) loads and 22 of them are designed for 10 amp loads. Most devices from headlights, taillights, ignition systems, line locks, shock controls, etc have low current requirements. Things such as starters, water pumps, transbrake have higher current requirements.

The unit comes equipped with a 7 switch 1 button panel that connects via Racepak’s V-Net technology with expansion capabilities of up to 32 V-Net switches. It also has the ability to accept 12 hardwired inputs from things like your line lock button, transbrake button, brake pressure switch, brake light switch, turn signal switch, etc.

Unlike the competition, the Smartwire allows any combinations of inputs to control any output. Allowing you to decide how you want everything to work while reducing clutter.

The unit can be used as a standalone wiring solution or used with any Racepak V-Net Datalogger to take power distribution to a whole new level.

Stay tuned for more about Smartwire in coming posts. If you are interested in Racepak’s new Smartwire, Hyperaktive is taking pre-orders. We are very pleased to be involved in Smartwire from the beginning, which allows us to be the leader in tech support and installation. If you would like to get on the pre-order list you can email me at Joe@hyperaktiveps,com for more details.
 
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#2 ·
Ok, so now that I have your attention, lets start the examples with a basic 2+ stage nitrous race car.

Besides the switch panel that is supplied with Smartwire lets list the other “inputs” that would be hardwired to the unit.

Line Lock
Transbrake
Neutral Safety Switch
Starter bump buttons on firewall
Brake light switch
WOT Switch
Purge
Bang Buttons (optional)

Thats a pretty good list of inputs besides the switch panels. It should also be noted that Racepak is working on an add on switch panel for nitrous application. This panel will include an arm switch, purge button and 4 bang buttons.

Now that we got the inputs out of the way, lets list the “outputs” that would be wired directly from the Smartwire module.

Starter (solenoid, main power is still a large battery cable)
Ignition system
Fuel Pump
Water pump
Fan
Line Lock
Transbrake
Nitrous system 1
Nitrous system 2
MSD Retard 1
MSD Retard 2
Purge 1
Purge 2
Headlights
Tail lights (brake too!)


I would say thats a pretty decent start and by all means you guys can add anything to the lists.

So think of how many relays you would have in that system, don't forget the transbrake relay for the nitrous shutoff! Also, how many different splices and jumpers would need to be made with this system. What about a Digi-set for the second stage of nitrous? As you can see it adds up to a pretty big clutter in a hurry.

With Smartwire you can simply wire each individual device to the unit, and then use the Datalink II Software to program the “conditions” which turn things on and off. I will list some basic “conditions” for the outputs I have listed above.

Starter- Simply push the button on the switch panel with the neutral safety switch is in the correct position and it engages the solenoid. With the bump buttons you can set a condition to only have them work with the ignition off. This way if your tuner is programming your MSD you don't risk firing the engine when running the valves.

Ignition- Most of the time this will be nothing but the toggle switch overhead.

Fuel Pump- Same as the ignition most of the time. Or you can have a condition that only allows the fuel pump on when the ignition is on.

Water pump- Switch on the panel. In addition, if you have a logger connected you can control the water pump based on engine temp if you wish.

Fan-Switch on panel. Or again, you can control the fan based on water temp with a logger connected. Another condition on a drag race car could be to turn off the fan while going down the track. This could simply be done by using the WOT switch and having the fan turn off anytime the WOT is activated. Then when you lift at the end of the track the fan resumes operation and cools the engine down.

You can also make the fuel pump, fan, and water pump turn off while the starter button is pushed to ease the load on the battery. Once the engine fires and you release the button those components turn right back on without you doing a thing.

Line lock- Simply pushing the button will activate the line lock.

Transbrake solenoid- Again, typically will be not much logic here, push the button and it activates the brake. For those concerned about the delay of the brake through the electronics, typical response time is about 2-3 milliseconds, which is almost twice as fast as a standard relay. Another thing to consider with Smartwire controlling the transbrake circuit is a transbrake lockout feature. This would prevent the transbrake from activating at the finish line and possibly causing the car to crash.

Purge Solenoid- Here is where we can have a little fun. We can do it simple, push the button and the solenoid turns on. Or a bit more complex, if a sensor is present, such as, making a condition that the button is functional as long as the bottle pressure is above 900psi. So you can hold the button and know it will turn off as soon as it goes under 900psi. No more pushing the purge button 35 times to make sure you got the pressure just right, let Smartwire work for you! Also, one button can purge all systems at once, even if 2 different bottle pressure sensors are used. Simply control each output according to the desired pressure for that system(s).

Lighting- A simple condition could be made to have the headlights come on only when the engine rpm is above 500rpm. This would prevent the headlights from draining the battery if you forget to flip the overhead switch! If your logger has a brake pressure v-net module and sensor you don't even need a brake light switch!

Nitrous system 1- We all know the basics, WOT on, transbrake off. Since these are already wired into the Smartwire there is no need for extra wiring. Simple tell the unit to turn on the system when the WOT is on and the transbrake is off. Set the delay for 0 so it turns the unit on right way. At the same time, use the same conditions for the MSD retard and you’re all set.

Nitrous System 2- Same basic premise as system 1, but you can program the delay with the Smartwire, no need for a Digi-set.

You can also set a condition for the nitrous systems based on fuel pressure, bottle pressure, EGT, AFR, or anything else to turn the nitrous off in the event of a problem. This type of situation and “Smart” thinking has the potential to save an engine!

A video of the software and some of the basic settings will follow this shortly!
 
#4 ·
very nice
cant wait to see one

thanks for the info
 
#7 ·
I do not have exact answers right now but I hope to know more this week. They are still doing some field testing to make sure all the bugs are worked out. I know they had a unit in a Trophy Truck out in the desert for a couple hundred miles and everything seemed to work good.
 
#13 ·
Its getting much closer, but no official date yet. They are in the final stages of testing.
 
#16 ·
No, we have run multiple stages with no external relays.

One other thing to keep in mind, you can combine channels for higher amperage capacity.

So if you feel your device will draw more than a 20 amp circuit, just combine 2 and you will have 40 amp capacity. Keep in mind you CANNOT combine high and low amperage outputs because it will cause issues with the lower amperage output.
 
#20 ·
Will this be a realistic system for street cars too? Does the switch panel have to be used or can we still use the original controls instead. Also will this system be able to control things like power windows and locks using OEM switches?

Also, one thing I like about some of the other multiplex systems is being able to use switches using grounds instead of B+, can the smartwire system work using ground triggers instead of B+?
 
#21 ·
Correct, you do not need to use the switch panel. The Smartwire has 12 hardwired inputs that can be configured for ground or power. Also, Racepak designed a CAN interface module for customers with existing switch panels. The SwitchModule, as they call it, will allow up to 16 inputs to be wired to it, then a single cable ran to the Smartwire unit.
 
#29 ·
Alright let me see what I can explain quick, I am packing for SGMP!!!

As I use Smartwire more and more, I have learned its all about logic and imagination!

In our turbo example we will assume the car has a mechanical fuel pump, intercooler pump, water pump, boost controller, etc.

Most guys today like to run a water cell rather than a radiator. You could get creative and use an electric check valve to keep the water in the engine until the temp reaches a certain setpoint, then open the valve and turn on the pump at the same time.

After the burnout one single switch can be used to activate all the pumps, arm the loggers and arm your controller. If you chose to have your controller triggered off TPS, in case you lift, you can use the EFI TPS number to trigger the output, reducing the need for an additional switch.

If fuel pressure drops below a certain value we can have it turn the boost controller off, bleeding boost in an effort to save the engine...

No issues with using a Racepak dash or and EFI interface module, along with any V-Net module and sensor.

As you can see its a pretty high-tech device that can do a bunch of cool things, its up to you, and your dealer ;), to program what you want when you want.
 
#31 ·
Alright Joe,
Now you've covered the N20 and turbo set ups what about a basic N/A stick shift set up. I know its basic and that is where I'm trying to find the advantage of the smartwire for me. Basically its no different than a Pro Stock system. Clutch switch, data logger, multi gear timing retards based off of limit switches at the shifter etc...
 
#32 ·
I am out of town, but I will get on this as soon as I get a spare moment.
 
#35 ·
They are in the process of the first production run right now.
 
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