Moles suck.

[DKH Racing]

Anyone have a good way to kill them ?

[jinx44]

Stick a water hose down in one of their mole runs, turn on the water. Sit down in a lawn chair in the middle of your yard with a cooler of beer beside of you and a shotgun in your lap. Enjoy your afternoon. LOL

[prost632]

i have the same problem with those basterds

[bad466]

Sit and wait with a shovel, when the tunnel that you smashed down moves, stab the ground with shovel and flip the dirt, then smack the mole with the shovel.

[project99mb]

i got those little phuckers in my yard as well. i poisoned a few but its hard cause i got 2 dogs.

[Randy Warr]

check this site out http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm the victor Plunger type works great for me, just be sure to set it properly and it will be very effective! one great way to set the trap in the right tunnel is to poke small holes in all of the tunnels / burrows with your finger (do not flatten the burrows out) and if the moles repair the hole within a day thats the spot you set the trap other wise you will waste time on non important lightly traveled areas, done right it works flawlessly hope this helps

[bad466]

i got those little phuckers in my yard as well. i poisoned a few but its hard cause i got 2 dogs.

Thats why i cant use the spike traps in my back yard, the dog wants to stick her nose in them.

[purpleplymouth]

I've seen a crushed corn cob/castor oil mixture for sale. It's supposedly very effective at running them off. From what I understand, they hate the smell of castor oil. You spread it over the yard and water. It's non-toxic to pets and kids. Just don't tell the neighbors!

[RAYSIN]

i heard compound w works...or maybe thats on warts, nevermind

[project99mb]

i heard compound w works...or maybe thats on warts, nevermind


YOU MY FRIEND ARE AN ASS

[RAYSIN]

Yeah i made a friend! we will have to work on the foul language though:smt097

[Outlaw Bill]

Talprid worms work real well also.

[Jeremy Glass]

The best way is to go to Home Depot.

They sell smoke bombs that kill the moles instantly. Light it, drop it in their trail, place a rock over the hole and presto.

Ive tried every method under the sun at the golf course, the smoke bombs get the best results.

They are too smart for the worms and other bait foods. The traps work OK, if you are patient, and lucky.

[X-BREDBITCH]

The best way is to go to Home Depot.

They sell smoke bombs that kill the moles instantly. Light it, drop it in their trail, place a rock over the hole and presto.

Ive tried every method under the sun at the golf course, the smoke bombs get the best results.

They are too smart for the worms and other bait foods. The traps work OK, if you are patient, and lucky.


Wow I Gotta try that I'm tired of my yard being torn up by those fuckers:smt081

[95badbird]

Juicy fruit gum,they can't digest it.Drop some in every hole you can find,they will dissappear.

[Randy Warr]

for those of you that are to lazy to click on the link I posted I'll post it here, note that several universities have studied this and have shown poisoning and fumigating is "Infective" trapping / killing them is not luck but a very easy skill that a 2nd grader can learn! Enjoy the read :


Moles can drive you nuts! If you're like most homeowners, you're probably confused by all of the conflicting "advice" on mole control. You believe every rumor, home remedy or control method is worth trying. In fact, chemicals and home remedies (including castor oil derivatives like Mole Med and grub controls) are not only ineffective when dealing with moles, they allow the animals time to establish and become real problems. Moles are woodland animals in nature, but can quickly colonize and spread through adjacent residential properties if not handled properly. Since they need a well-established tunnel network to survive, the longer they're allowed to tunnel, the more habituated they become and difficult to control. Trapping is the only effective method of control. It is literally a war of attrition.
Since few homeowners bother to trap moles, large mole populations can develop in residential areas. It seems odd to me that in spite of all knowledgeable sources advocating trapping as the only reliable approach to a mole problem, we're still pouring on the chemicals, pumping the soil full of gases, snapping up sonic noise makers and trying age old home remedies that never have worked.
The common mole is an insectivore, not a rodent. Its diet is restricted to ground invertebrates such as grubs, millipedes, ants and the like. However, the mole's primary food source is earthworm, so trying to control white grub and lawn insects is no protection from mole activity. The activity in certain lawns can simply come and go throughout the season. On large properties the activity may gypsy from one part of the lawn to another. This movement or migrating is controlled by climate and ground moisture. Moles will adapt to changes in food supply and source as different insects become available in different places and at different times throughout the year. Moles will jump homerange and readily recolonize other existing or deserted tunnels. Moles may leave an area if disturbed but will usually return when you least expect it. Even without disturbance mole activity may last only a week or two in a particular area. This here-now gone-tomorrow behavior is probably the root of most of the subjective misconceptions that make some home remedies including moleicides appear credible. Test results using chemicals as a control can also be distorted. Two that come to mind were both done in part by the same entomologist at the University of Michigan. He considers some poison baits (chlorophacinone) and Mole-Med to be effective in controlling moles.
Subjective misconceptions are also the root of such remedies as lye, Drano, pickle juice, broken glass, red pepper, razor blades, bleach, moth balls, rose branches, human hair balls, vibrators, ultrasonic contraptions, castor bean derivatives (Mole Med), gasoline and explosives. Although this fun and games approach may relieve frustrations, these and other home remedies have little if any value in controlling moles.
Moles are problems in residential properties because of:
1 - Restrictions on or loss of habitat through construction, drainage changes and possibly chemical runoff into the mole's natural habitat. (Moles are woodland animals. Suburban construction gobbles up or modifies hillsides and pastureland, leaving little or no room for woodland creatures. Combinations of pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers as chemical runoff may directly effect surrounding woodland biomass restricting the mole's natural food sources.)
2 - Artificial biomasses created and maintained through current landscaping practices. Most landscaping depends on artificial or chemical means of maintaining lawns and beds. These soils are kept rich with chemical nutrients as well as heavy applications of organic materials such as mulch and top soils. Watering or irrigation is common as well as the use of manmade borders, edgings, and other appointments such as timbers and stones; all super environments for worms and insects. Whether natural or unnatural, this type of landscaping provides a perfect food source (insects) for moles.
3 - Unreliable methods of control. The mole has an unusually low birth rate for a small mammal. Litter sizes are three to four pups once a year. Natural survival rate is less than half in the wild and we have a problem with moles?
There are no chemical solutions to a mole problem and trapping is the most reliable method of control. Mechanical traps are environmentally friendly, target specific and they work! Some traps are good, some are not. I prefer the Victor spear type and the Victor scissors (Out-o-sight). See news on new scissor trap., (http://www.themoleman.com/news.html)
One of the best studies I ever read on moles was published in Manhatten, Kansas in 1910 by Zoologist T.E. Scheffer. At the end of his work, he stated "Trapping is the surest and, so far as my experience goes, the most practical method of getting rid of moles."
Current information distributed by Purdue University's Pest Control Operations and authored by Robert Corrigan Ph.D. states "Trapping is the MOST reliable method of mole control." "Attempting to kill moles with poisonous gases (fumigants) generally is ineffective." Eighty years have passed and knowledgeable advice on moles remains the same. When moles are a problem, TRAP!
TRAPPING & TRAPS

Having used different traps over the years I consider the Victor spear trap and the Victor Out-O-Sight trap the only two traps worth using. The spear works best on new surface tunneling when the digging is visible as surface runs (usually in the early spring or early autumn). The spear also works well when the ground is wet after rains. The Out-O-Sight is a deep tunnel trap. See news scissor trap. (http://www.themoleman.com/news.html)
Deciding where and how to set mole traps is generally a problem for the homeowner. Box instructions are general and difficult to understand. Some basic biology and behavioral information is a plus. Hands-on help seems to work best but trial and error and a lot of persistence can also produce good results. Permanent or deeper tunnels will be the most productive since these tunnels may be used several times daily by the moles. To identify main runways in a yard or area, look for constantly reopened tunnels which follow more or less a straight course for some distance or that appear to connect two mounds or two feeding areas. Main runways will follow fence rows, walkways, foundations, or other man made borders. Main runways will occasionally work along woody perimeters of a field or lawn. Rambling tunnels in the lawn are probes of a sort and are quickly constructed by moles at about 15 to 18 feet per hour. They may or may not be reused. See Biology- Tunnels & Behavior.
You can trap moles anytime of the year, but I've found that early fall and early spring are the most effective times. Populations are normally lower, and damage is most visible then, before lawn grasses grow too tall in the spring or are covered with leaves in the fall. Early fall trapping eliminates moles before they move deeper for the winter and begin to reopen old tunnels and throwing up new mounds. Trapping in early spring, before new litters are born, prevents a lot of trouble later. Moles may seem to vanish during extended cold or dry periods, but they've just gone deeper. And because they're using fewer tunnels during these adverse conditions, trapping can be very effective, though difficult. Mole traps work because moles usually try to reopen a blocked tunnel. The trapper obstructs (see Figs. 1 & 2) the tunnel and sets the trap trigger against the obstruction. As the mole clears the tunnel, it pushes up on the trigger pan, releasing the spring and is skewered or crushed by the trap.
http://www.themoleman.com/Harpoon3.jpghttp://www.themoleman.com/Harpoonoff.jpg

Harpoon In Shallow Tunnel
1) Make a depression with your thumbs
or hand (Fig.1) in the center of an active
tunnel. The trigger pan will eventually
sit 1/2 to 1 inch down in this depression
or blockage.
2) Position the trap over the depression,
legs straddling the tunnel. Push the trap
into the soil until the trigger pan lays
flat on top of the depression. Lift the
trigger latch and push the trigger
pan into the tunnel depression.
The trigger latch should lay
outside of the trigger pan lip.
3) Hold the frame of the trap firmly
with your left hand and pull up
quickly on the setting tee. The latch
will slide into position inside of the
pan lip, holding the plate and spikes
above the tunnel.
Scissors Trap In A Deep Tunnel
The scissors or Out-Of-Sight trap allows
you to dig into an active tunnel to place the
trap exactly in the moles path.
1) With a tool about the same length and width as the trap,
dig down and expose the tunnel. The tunnel must be open
on both ends of the trap. (A through tunnel!)
2) Place a wedge of compacted dirt in the center of the
tunnel, making a speed-bump of sorts. It should cross http://www.themoleman.com/scissors3.jpghttp://www.themoleman.com/demo3.jpg
the tunnel and will lie directly beneath the trigger pan.
Or use clip-on tunnel choke. (http://www.themoleman.com/woodie.html)
3) Read the box instructions for cocking
and setting this trap! The tools provided
are to gain leverage. They are placed on
the spring with the trigger or long rod
laying across the top of the trap.
The rod extends through one setting lever
and will eventually latch inside the pan lip.
Use the safety hook once the trap is
cocked. The trap should align with the
tunnel so the mole will have to pass between
one set of jaws before hitting the blockage
or speed-bump. Once the trap is in position,
back fill the entire opening with loose soil
to keep daylight from entering the tunnel.
The Victor 0645 Plunger Mole Trap http://www.themoleman.com/NewSpear.jpg
is in the process of being modified. The
setting principle is the same as for the
Classic Plunger type illustrated in figure (1)
above, however, the box instructions
and illustrations are deceiving. The front
panel shows a set trap with mole going
through the trap with the tunnel not blocked.
The trigger pan must rest on a small blockage
made by crushing a small section of the tunnel
as explained in 1) above Harpoon In Shallow Tunnel.
The front panel also details a 28 coil spring. The
new trap actually has 13 coils. The side panel
also shows the “new” 0645 set incorrectly. See fig 3.

If the plunger trap is set as the picture illustrates, the
mole will not be able to set the trap off . The tunnel
portion beneath the trigger pan must be partially
blocked, and trigger pan must rest on the blockage.
All mole traps are designed to discharge when the
moles pushes up on the trigger. The moles does
this by trying to squeeze beneath the blocked portion
of the tunnel. This portion should be directly below
the trigger pan.
I don’t think the new plunger is constructed as well
as the old spear trap but I am able to catch moles
with the new 0645. As I stated above, it is in the
process of modification and I am sure the kinks will

be soon be worked out.

Any comments on the “new” Victor 0645 plunger can be directed
to Clay Tully
Woodstream Corp.
69 N. Locust Street
Lititz, PA 17543
Fax (800) 800-1770
Ph: (800) 800-1819



Both Victor traps work fairly well with the starnosed mole. It can be a problem to trap because of its small size and strength but particularly because of the soil(loose and moist) that it inhabits.. I have mentioned that moles will always take the path of least resistance when tunneling. Since either Victor trap requires tunnel blockage to trigger, starnose tend to tunnel beneath or around the blockages which are usually firmer than the surrounding marshy sand. This can be remedied by placing a floor beneath the trigger to keep the starnose from digging down. A small piece of wood (such as a short length of paint stick) or wire mesh will work. The floor should be short enough to allow the jaws of the out-o-sight trap to close on both sides. The wire mesh may work better for the Victor spear trap.
COMMON MISTAKES

One of the most common mistakes made with the spear trap is that the trigger pan is left above the tunnel allowing the mole room to squeeze beneath the trap. All traps are designed to spring as a result of some form of tunnel blockage. The only real mistake moles make is that they are constantly reopening blocked or crushed tunnels. The trigger pan sets in a depression or small blockage in the tunnel. Traps don't go at the ends on tunnels!

Another common mistake is that traps are placed on the wrong tunnels. All manufacturers instructions state that traps are to be placed on active tunnels. Finding an active tunnel is simple enough. On a long surface run you can crush a small section completely with your heel. You don't want to crush the entire tunnel because this might cause deeper tunneling. A section several inches wide will suffice. Deeper tunnels have to be opened with a tool or shovel. Open only a six to eight inch section. I use a four pronged cultivator with the handle cut off for ease of handling. The deep tunnel must be a through tunnel crossing from one side to the next. A single opening tunnel (usually beneath a mole mound) is just a hole. The only thing coming out of a hole is likely to be dirt. We don't trap holes! Fill in the deep tunnel with soil. In either case the blockages will be reopened within 24 to 48 hours if active; within several hours if very active. When tunneling is widespread this method will help you qualify only the active tunnels keeping the number of traps needed to a minimum.

You trap tunnels only! A very common mistake made by real novices is to shove a spear trap into a mole mound. No good! Even if the mole adds to the mound and sets the trap off you just catch dirt.
Another mistake made by homeowners who do get the spear trap in correctly is that when it is set off by a mole, they pull the trap out and are disappointed with no mole. Even a dead mole will not come out like a shis-ka-bob. Before pulling a discharged spear trap, dig on both sides of the spears to see if there is a deceased mole beneath the spikes. Many a homeowner has trapped a mole and not realized it.
A common mistake is not to use enough traps. If you have three active tunnels in the yard, use three traps. Traps are usually cheaper in the long run than most ineffective mole chemicals, poisons or noisy contraptions. When you're dealing with moles keep the grass short and well manicured. This will make spotting new mole tunnels a lot easier. Putting sod or top soil over mole tunnels can be a big mistake. It will add another dimension to the tunnel system and make spotting tunnels impossible. A great way to spot new mole activity and tunnels is to walk the lawn with the sun in your face. Mole tunnels will usually cast a distinct shadow through the lawn. They will also show up better if you look the day after the grass has been mowed. You might even get lucky and catch a mole working or adding on to a new tunnel. (The new tunnel will stick up higher than the surrounding cut grass.) If you choose to dig the mole out, be careful! They have sharp teeth and can bite!

[Starfire]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Nf7G5obrB4&feature=related

Propane/oxygen and ignition works every time.

http://www.rodenator.com/videos.htm


I use a home made version from a propane torch set up.

[Seattle_Mike]

Running them off only pisses them off and they tear more lawn up someplace else close by. I've found the ONLY method that works is elimination. Mine got so bad I hired a mole guy and learned the tricks from him. I use the scissor traps very successfully. Wear latex gloves while setting to keep any scent off the trap & surroundings. Find a tunnel where they are well traveled and dig a round hole big enough to slip the trap into. In the center, make a compacted mound of dirt about the size of a baseball...this is what will push against the trigger pan when the mole tries to burrow through the little mound. One thing I do a little differently and that's take the tin lid from a soup or veggie can and place it between the trigger pan and the dirt mound. It provides a wider surface and seems to make the trap more easily tripped. I fill in dirt loosely around the area and then cover the whole thing up with a black plastic leaf bag to keep any light out and then cover the edges of the bag with dirt etc. to hold it in place. Then hope Mr. Mole comes marching through and "WHAMMO" nails em in the neck or head every time. You have to be diligent about watching where they are active every day and you will learn where they seem to frequent.

If you can catch one pushing up the lawn or dirt, grab a hose and flood the tunnel as quickly as you can and be ready for Mr Mole to come flying out but have a shovel handy because they are quick and will dig right back down before you know it. I've caught probably 15-20 over the past 5 years or so and they can be downright devastating to a nice yard.

Good luck!

[Tanner]

Believe it or not, my little girl's yard pin wheels work for me. The vibrations run them off.

[ProGSX]

Watch the movie Caddyshack, you'll get alot of good tips there.

[Thor]

I've tried traps, juicy fruit, posions, smoke bombs, water hose, etc...

Don't laugh this is what worked best for me, and no I won't be liable if you screw something up...:smt098

Oxy accetelyn. Dig as small an opening into the tunnel as possible, inset mixer body (I take tip off) fill for 30-45 seconds, remove mixer, stand back 8-10 feet and light. (I toss a burning ball of paper at the hole) ... What you see, and hear next (oh yeah, use ear plugs!) will be like the opening scenes from "saving Private Ryan". It may take a few times, and Homeland Security may show up, but....

Also, do not do this around building foundations, or in holes from Norway rats, Don't ask how I know...

[Sean Melton]

A buddy of mine said to put dry ice down in the runs. Like leaving a car running with the garage door down. I will be trying it soon.

[Kwikford]

I've tried traps, juicy fruit, posions, smoke bombs, water hose, etc...

Don't laugh this is what worked best for me, and no I won't be liable if you screw something up...:smt098

Oxy accetelyn. Dig as small an opening into the tunnel as possible, inset mixer body (I take tip off) fill for 30-45 seconds, remove mixer, stand back 8-10 feet and light. (I toss a burning ball of paper at the hole) ... What you see, and hear next (oh yeah, use ear plugs!) will be like the opening scenes from "saving Private Ryan". It may take a few times, and Homeland Security may show up, but....

Also, do not do this around building foundations, or in holes from Norway rats, Don't ask how I know...

LOL...ok, I gotta ask.....:-D
How did you know?

[Thor]

Lol, the rats nest is huge and when filled caused a BIG explosion... Big enough to lift a poured set of steps 4-5", and crack the foundation of an old garage...

[purpleplymouth]

I can deal with some mole tunnels; it's when my stupid ass American Bulldog sniffs one out and tries to dig it up that I get pissed! I go from having a lump in the grass to a crater big enough to swallow a small child!

[JCRVETTE]

When I find a new mound, I knock it down level and get up about sun up the next day with a 22 and blast em. Position yourself in a safe shot-direction about 30-40' away. When the dirt moves on the new mound,watch and they will push dirt out of the hole to the edge of the mound, then they're done. Works every time. Also I've used a sharp 3/8 steel rod about 5' long and shoved it into the ground between holes (in florida sand) when it feels like you stabbed a 'tater, you won't see any more mounds. We need to start a oxy-acetelyne story thread!

[rich267]

my father is crazy about moles in his yard. started a website on getting rid of them really works to. www.molecontrol.org (http://www.molecontrol.org)

[Randy Warr]

my father is crazy about moles in his yard. started a website on getting rid of them really works to. www.molecontrol.org (http://www.molecontrol.org)
SPAMMER !!!

[Kwikford]

Lol, the rats nest is huge and when filled caused a BIG explosion... Big enough to lift a poured set of steps 4-5", and crack the foundation of an old garage...


LOL....Holy Chit.... You must've watch CaddyShack too much or smoke Carl Spackler's grass...:-D

I know it is not funny...sorry to hear that...

[dbromo]

This thred is awsome!!! We do not have this problem down here in South Florida so I am in awe of this little bastard!!!

[Thor]

This thred is awsome!!! We do not have this problem down here in South Florida so I am in awe of this little bastard!!!
I can mail you some:-D

[X-BREDBITCH]

I can mail you some:-D


Diddo And No Charge for the Shipping:-damnit

[dbromo]

I can mail you some:-D

What do they look like??? I have never seen one.

[NASTYCAMARO]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrGnW0KLFZk this is the ultimate cure for underground pest....

[Mod]

The spike trap pic that randy warr pictured works the best.

Tried everything, smoke bombs, oxy/acety, water hose, Remington Wingmaster 870 with gravel loads and goose loads, "one bite" poison for moles, rat poison, you name it,,nothing worked better than the Victor spike style mole trap.

[Thor]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5HfsKLM-34&feature=related

No, not me..

[cooke]

When I find a new mound, I knock it down level and get up about sun up the next day with a 22 and blast em. Position yourself in a safe shot-direction about 30-40' away. When the dirt moves on the new mound,watch and they will push dirt out of the hole to the edge of the mound, then they're done. Works every time. Also I've used a sharp 3/8 steel rod about 5' long and shoved it into the ground between holes (in florida sand) when it feels like you stabbed a 'tater, you won't see any more mounds. We need to start a oxy-acetelyne story thread!

I agree 100 %. Something about about the first 30 minutes or so after the sun comes up. It really pisses them off when they get their mound "levelled". Nothing like starting your day off with killing a mole. LOL.

[cooke]

This thred is awsome!!! We do not have this problem down here in South Florida so I am in awe of this little bastard!!!

Little bastard is right! They come equipped with a Z-71 Off-Road package that will wreck a lawn in minutes! Think of them as a pocket-sized back-hoe that runs 24/7.
Worse yet is my Jack Russell terrier that hates the little bastards worse than anyone. Last month he killed 3 in a week and completely excavated my back yard in the process.

[Mod]

. We need to start a oxy-acetelyne story thread!

Loaded up a nice main run chamber with big ole load of oxy-acet. killed the oxy, lit the acet,, covered the eyes and touched her off. KABLAMMMM!!!

still had some residual flames licking around the hole, So I grabbed a old set of coveralls I used to kneel on and smothered/pushed down on the hole with them,,several mole hills around the one I was working started popping like pop corn,,tossing turf and dirt in the air.

Must have had some residual gas that didnt light, so it just shoved the hot fumes/flames thru the run and touched off the rest.

Was getting pelted with rock and dirt from all sides with no were to move.

Little basdard was dead, or had a hell of a hangover.

[Kwikford]

Loaded up a nice main run chamber with big ole load of oxy-acet. killed the oxy, lit the acet,, covered the eyes and touched her off. KABLAMMMM!!!

still had some residual flames licking around the hole, So I grabbed a old set of coveralls I used to kneel on and smothered/pushed down on the hole with them,,several mole hills around the one I was working started popping like pop corn,,tossing turf and dirt in the air.

Must have had some residual gas that didnt light, so it just shoved the hot fumes/flames thru the run and touched off the rest.

Was getting pelted with rock and dirt from all sides with no were to move.

Little basdard was dead, or had a hell of a hangover.


LMAO......
I can picture headline news on local news channel.....

Big Bang heard around town.....

"Just relax folks, it is local racers setting off explosive to kill moles" :-D

[JUICED96Z]

Stick a water hose down in one of their mole runs, turn on the water. Sit down in a lawn chair in the middle of your yard with a cooler of beer beside of you and a shotgun in your lap. Enjoy your afternoon. LOL


Hmmm, that wold work I bet...... Gassing wold work to (mentioned in other post).....

If I ever live out on the boonies and have a mole problem Ill have some fun with it :D


A friends neighbr had a varmit problem and sat on his back porch with a AR15 and a spot light and had some fun.

My friend turned on his underground sprinkler system the next day and had a head or two spraying all over the place..... dug around and found what was left of a few .223 rounds.... said he about fell over laughing.

[JCRVETTE]

I have a customer that makes his own firecrackers. One about 3" long will take the top 4-6" of a fence post off. I had a mole hill come up one day and shoved one of those crackers down the hole and plugged it off with a 4x4 block stuck down the hole. After it went off my wife ran out to see what the heck happened, then said- did it kill it? I said well it didn't do him any good. It was back the next day, so he had lead for breakfast. I don't waste the few crackers I have left. Another customer brought over a four drawer walmart pressboard dresser, we put a cracker in it and it turned it into confetty. What a mess. I won't tell what the cracker the size of a spray paint can did. LOL

[RBPOWER]

this is what I use on the hay farm... I look foward to the days we go out to get the moles


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWTV1ai44_k&feature=related

[gas6999]

This thred is awsome!!! We do not have this problem down here in South Florida so I am in awe of this little bastard!!!

yea the gators and water mochisins take care of them
george

[Mod]

yea the gators and water mochisins take care of them
george

No shit,,lol. a little scooby snack for them.

[AA/Paul]

Look up verminator on youtube. Good entertainment.

[SHRIKE]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KA7Y-6lwcM

[novaman1]

i would suggest you watch Caddy Shack, they had some really good ways of getting rid of rodents

[Chuck u Farley M.D.]

All bullshit aside, The best way is if possible to find and block all the exits except 1 and then run a hose off the exhaust of your car or truck. Carbon monoxide kills them really easilly and other than the price of the hose and some gas theres nothing else to worry about and you dont have to worry about blowing up the neighborhood.

[jim sciortino]

Dead moles dig no holes.

[Brad54]

I was never a cat person, and still much prefer dogs to cats, but we've got three outside cats... the acre lot next door is empty and totally unkept: half weeds, half woods. The back half of my acre is woods and wet.
We have NO moles, mice or chipmunks. Or small snakes. And this week I've found three dead frogs and a Nut Hatch bird in the driveway too. It's like Mutual Of Omaha's Wild Kingdom in my yard.
I absolutely don't like them on the cars in the winter (I've heard, but haven't tried, moth balls in a bowl on the hood and decklid will train them to stay off), but it's worth having them. I consider them lawn car tools. Boy Wonder reports that he sees moles in his friends' yards all the time, as well as mice.
In the winter, I don't have to worry about mice getting into the shop, the basement or the garage, and I never have to worry about squirrels getting up into the attic or shop eaves either.
They're all self-taught. Hell, our best was an indoor cat for the first 4 or 5 years, and doesn't have claws front or back. Go to the humane society, get a fixed male and release him in your hard. Your rodents will no longer be a problem.

-Brad

[excelerater]

moles are cute .....

[WJ Birmingham]

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb199/onebadgmc/Mole_at_work.jpg

This shit just appeared last night/today in my front lawn...

Is this the work of a mole? The dirt that has been dug up is finely crushed, like an ant hill.

I did kick the dirt around though, so it might be hard to tell. There are 3 distinct places where it was pushed up. When I kicked it around and walked it in, something pushed it back up.

[budman07]

Mole are there looking for grubs to eat, Treat your lawn for the grubs and the moles will leave your lawn for the neighbors.

[dbhuntress1966]

yes I do.......
you'll need a shop vac and a leaf blower! Shop vac in one end and the leaf blower in the other........I ended up with 4 in the vac last year. Throw some human hair clippings all around your yard, that's kept them away so far for me!