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Monty Mikho
03-26-2006, 02:14 PM
Here a plug taken from a motor running a .040 and .042 pill (fogger)
Clean plug below..

The arrow on the left shows the heat mark which is near the base of the ground strap (Start of the thread). Anything hotter will make this mark go lower (down onto the threads). Anything colder will move this mark up
(towards the radius of the ground strap).

The arrow on the right shows the fuel ring. Notice it is at the base of the plug. It falls between the inter metal part of the plug and the base of the plug. Anything richer will move up the plug (Like picture # 2). Anything leaner will work towards the metal part of the plug.

Please remember if the fuel ring is in the right spot and you need to add timing. That it will need added fuel as well. Remembering adding timing will give the fuel more time to burn. If the fuel isn't there it will eat a piston. If you remove timing and the fuel is rich remember to remove some fuel.. I think you get the picture.. Let us know how things work out for you. Make you best judgements on which way to move and how much. Try little moves.. Never make two big moves..

http://www.yellowbullet.com/clean1.jpg


This picture is mid rich. It also shows some oil on the plug. Lets discount that at the moment. Notice the fuel ring us 1/3 of the way up the porcelaine? this fuel ring means it is rich. Removing fuel will lower this mark. Adding fuel will raise this mark (Like picture #3)

http://www.yellowbullet.com/mid_rich.jpg

This plug is fuel rich. Notice the fuel ring at the top of the porcelain near the electrode?

http://www.yellowbullet.com/full_rich.jpg


The following plugs show timing heat marks. The marks are identified by the red mark.

The picture below shows the target timing mark for nitrous motors.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/timing_right_on.jpg



The picture below shows not enough heat in the combustion chamber. Adding timing will allow more time for the fuel to burn producing more heat in the chamber. You will need to add around 1.5 degrees of timing if the timing mark falls in this area. Please remember to look at the fuel ring and make adjustments if needed.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/needs_around_1_1_2_degrees_of_timing.jpg


The picture below is too much timing. Removing timing will move this mark off the threads back on to the ground strap. If the timing mark falls in this area. You will need to remove around 1.5 degrees of timing. Don't forget to look at the fuel mark to see if changes are needed

http://www.yellowbullet.com/remove_around_1_1_2_degrees_of_timing.jpg


Please note that lean fuel mixtures will add heat to the combustion chamber as well. Use the standard 1 degree of timing per 25 HP and the jet spread/fuel pressure recommended with your kit. Work your way to a better tune up from there. Personally I like to remove the fuel and add timing (if needed in that direction) in very small increments. Making big moves will make a lot of wasted aluminum...

The plug below is an oiled down plug. Notice the glaze look to the porcelain. The dark spot at the base is the fuel ring. The tan/gray is the oil. Please do not confuse the two. They look totally different.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/cutaway_oil_on_plug.jpg

Play safe, make small moves and take it easy. This stuff will come with time. Use a new set of plugs after reading the first set. Using a used set of plugs will mislead you down the wrong path. Save these plugs till your tune up is done then you can reinstall them in the motor (unless they are wasted of course). Take your time with reading. 5 minutes of time will save you $1000 in broken parts and hours of rebuild time.

MCMIKE
06-16-2006, 08:56 AM
Monty, why do you say the timing mark for nitrous should be at the base of the ground strap, I've always read to have it on the bend of the strap?If I do have the heat mark on the bend and want to move it to the base how much timing are we talking about and how much et or power improvement would I see ?

Monty Mikho
06-17-2006, 12:35 AM
Monty, why do you say the timing mark for nitrous should be at the base of the ground strap, I've always read to have it on the bend of the strap?If I do have the heat mark on the bend and want to move it to the base how much timing are we talking about and how much et or power improvement would I see ?

Not sure how much ET or power you will see with your combo. But 1 degree of timing for me has always made a difference in power. You will need to be careful that your fuel ring is not at the base if you are looking to move the timing up. Moving timing will demand more fuel.. more fuel will give you power... How much? Only the time clocks will tell ya that.. :) If it is at the bend it is usually around 1.5-2 degrees off. But make sure you are tapped out on the fuel ring.. If you are I would add fuel first and make a run. Bring the fuel ring to the 1/2 way point and then move the timing .5 to 1 degree at a time depending on how sensitive you motor is to timing..

MCMIKE
06-18-2006, 08:18 AM
I'm having a little bit of a hard time seeing the timing mark on the NGK plugs,I've looked at my buddies Autolite plug and the timing mark seems more prominate.Does this seem to be the case?

Monty Mikho
06-18-2006, 07:44 PM
Are you guys using the same type of fuel? With the Torco it is a little easier to read as they mix in some coloring with the fuel. VP-N2O is totally clear and makes it a little tougher to see the fuel and timing mark at times. NGK plugs are actually a little easier for me to read. The cadmium plating will actually start flaking when the timing is on the base. It will turn a rainbow color when it is too hot and maintain the cadmium when its too cold. It is a quick spot check..

Scott McMullen
06-21-2006, 08:49 PM
Damn Monty, Your like a Plug reading wizard! I just Learned a whole lot from this Thread. Damn!

Monty Mikho
06-21-2006, 10:15 PM
Not at all.. I still melt them things.. :-D

Killer89coupe
07-05-2006, 07:18 PM
Very good article.
Can you give me directions on how to actually run the car after the install of the new plugs?
Pull the car to the staging lanes or drive it? Etc.
I know to shut it down at the end of the run and pull it back to the pits, but does it help to pull it to the staging lanes too when trying to get a good tune up?
Thanks in adavance.

Monty Mikho
07-05-2006, 07:48 PM
Hello Killer89, it really doesn't matter if you drive it or tow it to the staging lanes. The heat is made on the pass. The reason you wanna shut it down after the run is to get a clean plug without the black carbon on it from driving or idling.

old school
07-05-2006, 11:15 PM
Learn somthing new everyday!
well done Monty.

Killer89coupe
07-06-2006, 06:13 AM
Hello Killer89, it really doesn't matter if you drive it or tow it to the staging lanes. The heat is made on the pass. The reason you wanna shut it down after the run is to get a clean plug without the black carbon on it from driving or idling.
Thanks Monty. You guys are the best.
Keep up the good work.

Robert1320
09-08-2006, 01:37 PM
Monte, Great post with pics too.

Thanks

chris406
10-19-2006, 12:08 PM
Was looking at the second pic where you say that there is a little oil on the plug, but to discount that. Is the oil the little spots on the porcelin? What causes that? What's the severity of the issue?

xdamxincx
10-21-2006, 10:45 PM
little spots on the porcelin is called peppering which is light detonation.

OLDHEAD
11-30-2006, 11:11 PM
Tell me I have a sbc. that dyno at 1135 hp....I have a supercharged blow thru with 21# of boost and I spray it with a 150 shot(soon to use more),I have a 100 runs on it and 5000 street miles and no trouble in 2 years......using a powerful magnifying glass is can see small (possible aluminum) bb's on the porcelin...Altogether I have been seeing bb's for 4 years and still the same set of pistons....Where are the bb's coming from????When I last looked at the pistons in 2004 they looked good:p :p :p :p OLDHEAD

Monty Mikho
12-01-2006, 12:08 AM
Tell me I have a sbc. that dyno at 1135 hp....I have a supercharged blow thru with 21# of boost and I spray it with a 150 shot(soon to use more),I have a 100 runs on it and 5000 street miles and no trouble in 2 years......using a powerful magnifying glass is can see small (possible aluminum) bb's on the porcelin...Altogether I have been seeing bb's for 4 years and still the same set of pistons....Where are the bb's coming from????When I last looked at the pistons in 2004 they looked good:p :p :p :p OLDHEAD

If you are using an NGK plug it is more than likely the cadmium plating they use on the metal portion of the plug. This comes off the ground strap portion of the plug. The plating should just start to flake when the heat is right on.. If you are not using NGK plugs.. I have no answer..

Monty Mikho
12-01-2006, 12:11 AM
little spots on the porcelin is called peppering which is light detonation.

Thanks xdamzincx for that.. and sorry for not replying Chris but I didnt see it.. Oil will always cause detonation in a nitrous motor... Royal Purple seems to do it the least for some reason...

OLDHEAD
12-01-2006, 03:17 PM
THANKS...:p :p :p :p OLDHEAD

Jeff Swanson
12-01-2006, 09:51 PM
Monty-

HTF do you take the plug apart like that without destroying the porcelin?

81 olds
12-02-2006, 02:10 AM
Monty-

HTF do you take the plug apart like that without destroying the porcelin?


lathe, he showed me that trick

gimmemud
11-15-2007, 12:18 PM
I dont see the pics, all I see is a red X, I would like to see so I can tell if I have been doing it right.

NOS-Nelson
11-15-2007, 12:27 PM
Due to the age of the thread the links may have changed.

Escapemachine
01-19-2008, 02:22 PM
All I see is red x's also

TS414X
02-15-2008, 03:28 PM
Red x's here too - any possibility of a repost so the pics show up? Looks like a great thread!

JL ws-6
02-18-2008, 01:36 PM
Damn red x's, any chance the photo's can get reloaded?

TS414X
02-18-2008, 02:13 PM
I sent a PM to Monte - hopefully they can get put back up.

Notch-R
02-18-2008, 06:17 PM
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html something to read in the mean time.i hope he gets the pictures back up,im dumb and need to look at pics!!

Tom McDunnah
04-23-2008, 06:48 PM
Got this in the nitrous forum,its a good read.
http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html

jimmyz18
05-07-2008, 10:07 PM
Hey Monty, I cant see the pics you have posted, is there anyway you could email me this thread with the pics? my email is jmznh18@snet.net

Thanks
Jim

fast89gt
05-29-2008, 01:14 PM
Hey Monty, I cant see the pics you have posted, is there anyway you could email me this thread with the pics? my email is jmznh18@snet.net

Thanks
Jim


x2 thanks email vasili89gt@wowway.com

Mr 434
05-29-2008, 08:41 PM
Hey Monty, I cant see the pics you have posted, is there anyway you could email me this thread with the pics? my email is jmznh18@snet.net

Thanks
Jim
make it 3 stang79@aol.com thanks

Draggin my X
05-29-2008, 08:51 PM
No Pics!!! :-damnit


:smt076

GrahamHill
07-20-2008, 11:01 AM
Can you rehost the original pics?

rs7337
07-25-2008, 03:36 PM
Can you rehost the original pics?

MUST HAVE PICS!!!! damn it !!!!

BTL FED
07-30-2008, 05:07 PM
Might as well delete the thread without pics!!!

runawy9
08-19-2008, 07:06 PM
This thread is useless without pics!

Nitrousnova
09-10-2008, 01:25 PM
What happened to the Pics ?

newbomb
10-10-2008, 01:44 PM
Still no pic?

tricktom1
11-25-2008, 01:44 PM
ttt