View Full Version : ANTIROLL BAR
GARYB69Z
02-04-2006, 11:20 AM
DOES ANYONE USE ONE WITH A LADDERBAR CAR? HOW DOES IT WORK
gregsdart
02-09-2006, 09:44 PM
I have ladderbars and desperately needed the anti-roll setup i built. The car picked up .02 to .03 in the 60 fts and quit ripping one tire off the track as well, which makes it a bit more boring to drive, but one hell of a lot more consistant!!
A lot of guys tried to tell me that the ladderbars are an anti roll device in themselves. Hogwash! They don't have anywhere near the torsional strength to stop body roll when you drop the front of the ladderbar low enough to get at or below the neutral line. I can only imagine how badly all my parts were twisting around before the install, as the car would crank the left front way higher than the right, then pull the left rear slick clean off the track when the suspension ran out of travel. After the anti-roll was installed, i can run absolutely zero preload, car has gone 1.261, as opposed to 1.30+
One thing though, Radial drag slicks and anti-rol devices doen't seem to go well together. My car handles badly down track after i went to the radial slicks, it was OK with Bias ply slicks.
ProCar
02-11-2006, 11:15 AM
I agree that some ladder bar cars can make use of a torsion or anti roll bar, many cars begin life with incorrect corner weighs that lead to body roll more than the lack of the roll device. Ladder bars in conjunction with diagonal links are rather resistant to body roll as long as there is enough diagonal weight carried at the driver front and pass. rear.
This is NOT to say you are wrong, just that many cars that have anti roll equipment on then were fundamentally messed up in the first place.
Best wishes- ProCar
How about the need for an anti roll bar due to flexing of poor ladder bar designs? Would you say that could be a reason for the need for one or better ladder bar designs?
JCRVETTE
02-14-2006, 09:07 AM
When Procar Pat talks, listen up. No disrespect to the other qualified people here, just the facts.
superdave
02-15-2006, 05:02 PM
:smt102
When Procar Pat talks, listen up. No disrespect to the other qualified people here, just the facts.
I dont know if your refering to my post or not, but my post was merly another question. I think the ladder bars on the market are junk (weak/poor design) and am looking for someone to reassure me of that.
JCRVETTE
02-16-2006, 09:04 AM
Jake, and others, my post was not to a specific person or question but as a general observation that Pro-car knows what they are doing. I quess I worded it poorly, maybe I shouldn't post at 8am LOL. As far as ladder bars being junk, most companys bars were never designed for the power we put to them today. Cars at 3600lbs going 7.50's, tough on everything. I don't think most of todays l/b's are strong/safe to go past the 9's, but I try not to think about it. :lol: Depending on power/weight and if you have to run l/b (class) a good chassis shop can build a high hp set. I run anti roll on my l/b car and it made a huge difference also. 9.60@ 140,3200 lbs with no preload. Also left good on 150 shot with no preload. Dew settled on track and didn't make it all the way down, so no et #s. I'm a big fan of no preload myself gregsdart. I guess guys like Pat know how to set cars up W/o, but made it easier for me. Not in any click, met pat at the track a few times, and he had the time to give advice/help. Not the kind -do this do that-His advice really helped. Bought parts from them and was pleased with the service. Just trying to pass along to others that he ain't no clown, thats all. Sorry if I offended anyone earlier. :)
Jake, and others, my post was not to a specific person or question but as a general observation that Pro-car knows what they are doing. I quess I worded it poorly, maybe I shouldn't post at 8am LOL. As far as ladder bars being junk, most companys bars were never designed for the power we put to them today. Cars at 3600lbs going 7.50's, tough on everything. I don't think most of todays l/b's are strong/safe to go past the 9's, but I try not to think about it. :lol: Depending on power/weight and if you have to run l/b (class) a good chassis shop can build a high hp set. I run anti roll on my l/b car and it made a huge difference also. 9.60@ 140,3200 lbs with no preload. Also left good on 150 shot with no preload. Dew settled on track and didn't make it all the way down, so no et #s. I'm a big fan of no preload myself gregsdart. I guess guys like Pat know how to set cars up W/o, but made it easier for me. Not in any click, met pat at the track a few times, and he had the time to give advice/help. Not the kind -do this do that-His advice really helped. Bought parts from them and was pleased with the service. Just trying to pass along to others that he ain't no clown, thats all. Sorry if I offended anyone earlier. :)
None taking :-D Never can be sure with this silly internet,sorry. I am subtly listening about ladderbar woe's because I have a design that I am thinking about trying to market but I dont have the money to flop out on the deal. I've got a few theories that I would like validated but really dont wanna ask or show my hand of cards, I think.
ProCar
02-20-2006, 03:16 PM
Look, some have the need for an anti roll bar due to high horsepower ladder bar applications..... Just make sure that all the detail issues are in place, as the ladder bar/diagnal locator are a fairly roll resistant combinaton. Many cars are not set up correctly from the word go- If they are, then they need to look into the anti-roll. We've got a ladder bar car that leaves in the low 1.20's and still corkscrews, so we installed an anti roll, but we believe he is in the minority. My post was about dotting I's and crossing T's with what you have.... cars needing anti-roll bars with ladder bars are in the minority, but not unheard of, for sure.
Chris Uratchko
02-20-2006, 03:35 PM
If the car is set up properly, there is no need for a roll bar....
Maybe there is a line that one could draw in terms of ET or Horsepower, but it'll be below 8.0's.
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