LSx crank recommendations?

[Jake]

Looking for some recommendations for a crank for a LSx engine. I'm not real concerned about the stroke right now but am looking for something that would withstand the stress of a blower pulley and support about 1500 plus. Didnt know if I should look at billet cranks or just 4340 or even folks experiance with brands. There's so much new stuff out and most is hard to find. I found Scat to have 4340's and billets but didnt know what the feedback was from personal experiance's.

[Eric@VictoryRacing]

We use alot or Callies products and have been very happy with them over the years.

[njc.corp]

seen callies and eagles are very popular for the ls build-

[qwiknotch]

Lunati makes an indestructible crank as well for the LS

[Jake]

Cool, thanks guys.

[JoeCapri]

We have used the compstar from callies with great success in cars with well over 750 rwhp. JOE CHAMPION PERFORMANCE centerline MI

[ty_ty13]

make sure and weld your reluctor wheel to the crank and have it rebalanced or use a crank trigger...

[Collinsautomotive]

For something like this I would get a Billet molodex with a bigger snout and dual keyways. Most of the 4340 crank can take power but I do not know of many people running big supercharged setups that have not had issues with snout fialure,bearing fialures etc. I would also highly suggest investing in a Snout support device like what is available for the SBF and other older engine platforms..


Looking for some recommendations for a crank for a LSx engine. I'm not real concerned about the stroke right now but am looking for something that would withstand the stress of a blower pulley and support about 1500 plus. Didnt know if I should look at billet cranks or just 4340 or even folks experiance with brands. There's so much new stuff out and most is hard to find. I found Scat to have 4340's and billets but didnt know what the feedback was from personal experiance's.

[Jake]

For something like this I would get a Billet molodex with a bigger snout and dual keyways. Most of the 4340 crank can take power but I do not know of many people running big supercharged setups that have not had issues with snout fialure,bearing fialures etc. I would also highly suggest investing in a Snout support device like what is available for the SBF and other older engine platforms..


Thanks for the input. I may be playing with fire, but was planning on running the stock gerator pump setup(albeit a better pump) and thru a stock timing cover. Do they offer a big snout crank setup to run like this on the Gen. III stuff? I've already got a balancer figured out from ATI w/ a BBC OD hub with the LSx ID and double keyed. I already planned on machining my own crank support kit for it also. Thanks for your continued input.:D

[Collinsautomotive]

I would worry about snout flex breaking the gerator gears. I would imagine if you are having a billet crank made however that it would easy enough to get the manufacturer to make the pump drive right into the crank snout. This would allow you to have a large increase in snout stiffness and should hopefully allow it to be much stiffer.

I think the best thing to do honestly would be to run a gilmer drive pattersen oil pump. It is very easy to plump into the LS1 oiling system as right on the front of the block where the pump bolts up is a very convinent spot to put oiling right back in. While not a true dry sump it would solve any potential issues with oil pump failure being inducded by crankshaft flex. You could put a pickup right in the buttom back of the pan and life would be good.


Thanks for the input. I may be playing with fire, but was planning on running the stock gerator pump setup(albeit a better pump) and thru a stock timing cover. Do they offer a big snout crank setup to run like this on the Gen. III stuff? I've already got a balancer figured out from ATI w/ a BBC OD hub with the LSx ID and double keyed. I already planned on machining my own crank support kit for it also. Thanks for your continued input.:D

[Jake]

I would worry about snout flex breaking the gerator gears. I would imagine if you are having a billet crank made however that it would easy enough to get the manufacturer to make the pump drive right into the crank snout. This would allow you to have a large increase in snout stiffness and should hopefully allow it to be much stiffer.

I think the best thing to do honestly would be to run a gilmer drive pattersen oil pump. It is very easy to plump into the LS1 oiling system as right on the front of the block where the pump bolts up is a very convinent spot to put oiling right back in. While not a true dry sump it would solve any potential issues with oil pump failure being inducded by crankshaft flex. You could put a pickup right in the buttom back of the pan and life would be good.

Very interesting thought about the pump drive. I figured this would spiral out of proportion quickly.:D Cool info about the remote pump drive also. I had thought about that before when considering the Jesel belt drive setup. Were gonna try sneaking up to our parts breaking point on the first setup but I am hoping to build my own engine above standards.:D Thanks again for the continued information!
-Jake

[Collinsautomotive]

You should have no trouble running a gilmer setup with a mandrel. The only other option you really have to save the factory oil pump with such a heavy SC load would be to go direct gear driven right off the crank. My comfort level would be 100x higher with a direct drive setup. It will most definately reduce load on the crank snout in the plane that will cuase trouble.

The billet crank plan might work but the real issue again is the stability of the oil pump and preventing the gear from being cocked in the bore. It does seem to happen on ford mod motors. Similar pump with similar type of drive and a similar cranksnout OD.

You could always go turbo and make more power with less engine stress ?

As for the direct drive what chassis are you sticking this monster into ?



Very interesting thought about the pump drive. I figured this would spiral out of proportion quickly.:D Cool info about the remote pump drive also. I had thought about that before when considering the Jesel belt drive setup. Were gonna try sneaking up to our parts breaking point on the first setup but I am hoping to build my own engine above standards.:D Thanks again for the continued information!
-Jake

[Jake]

You should have no trouble running a gilmer setup with a mandrel. The only other option you really have to save the factory oil pump with such a heavy SC load would be to go direct gear driven right off the crank. My comfort level would be 100x higher with a direct drive setup. It will most definately reduce load on the crank snout in the plane that will cuase trouble.

The billet crank plan might work but the real issue again is the stability of the oil pump and preventing the gear from being cocked in the bore. It does seem to happen on ford mod motors. Similar pump with similar type of drive and a similar cranksnout OD.

You could always go turbo and make more power with less engine stress ?

As for the direct drive what chassis are you sticking this monster into ?

I'd thought about adapting or proding the Supercharger Store to do a kit for the LSx enigines but I've got a 1000 bucks worth of 1" aluminum plate here to do 2 kits. One for my buddy, and one for my car. Either car wouldl be a good canidate for the gear drive unit if it was necessary to do so.
Is it necessary to run a Jesel belt drive to do the remote oil pump or can I do fittings thru the pan or timing cover on the oil feed port? Thanks-

[Collinsautomotive]

Yeah I would love to see a direct drive setup. Although I personally do no care much for superchargers. To much parasitic loss.

As for the remote oil pump you can run it right off the crank snout. You can feed oil into the engine right at the front of the block on the side of the timing cover area look at the block by cylinder #1 down on the front near the oil pan and timing cover area. You will see a plug. That plug goes directly into the main oil galley. You will of course have to block of the internal galley where the oil pump sat but thats a small patato.

They do make Gilmer belt style mandrels. Peterson makes a remote mount oil pump which could be mounted anywhere. Combine that with a mandrel and a gilmer pulley and you would be all set. Treat it like a single stage dry sump. As for your pickup you should be able to weld a tube into the pan and then run a hose to the pump.

Look into what some of the Mustangs are doing since they have some classes which prohibit dry sumps. Its basically a single stage wet sump with an external pump.



I'd thought about adapting or proding the Supercharger Store to do a kit for the LSx enigines but I've got a 1000 bucks worth of 1" aluminum plate here to do 2 kits. One for my buddy, and one for my car. Either car wouldl be a good canidate for the gear drive unit if it was necessary to do so.
Is it necessary to run a Jesel belt drive to do the remote oil pump or can I do fittings thru the pan or timing cover on the oil feed port? Thanks-

[Collinsautomotive]

Here is the Peterson FLuid Systems web site. Give them a call and tell them what you are aiming to do.

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/pump_wet.html

[Jake]

Yeah I would love to see a direct drive setup. Although I personally do no care much for superchargers. To much parasitic loss.

As for the remote oil pump you can run it right off the crank snout. You can feed oil into the engine right at the front of the block on the side of the timing cover area look at the block by cylinder #1 down on the front near the oil pan and timing cover area. You will see a plug. That plug goes directly into the main oil galley. You will of course have to block of the internal galley where the oil pump sat but thats a small patato.

They do make Gilmer belt style mandrels. Peterson makes a remote mount oil pump which could be mounted anywhere. Combine that with a mandrel and a gilmer pulley and you would be all set. Treat it like a single stage dry sump. As for your pickup you should be able to weld a tube into the pan and then run a hose to the pump.

Look into what some of the Mustangs are doing since they have some classes which prohibit dry sumps. Its basically a single stage wet sump with an external pump.

Thanks! I'm really starting to like the remote pump setup.