English Wheel

[HotRodRyan]

Anyone ever get into these. I'm out in Salt Lake City and I found some nice rat rods I wanna buy and restore but I'm almost guarantee they don't make repo sail panels for a 1950 delux coupe.

[outlaw68]

www.metalcrafttools.com (http://www.metalcrafttools.com) you will find your answer there.
Great bunch of people.

[Performance Welding]

I use there stuff , never had a problem.

http://www.irvansmith.com/scart/tools-equipment-english-wheels-accessories-c-3_32.html

[Rick_R]

don't buy one if you think it is easy, You will destroy 1/2 ton of sheet metal before you learn the proper methods to get what you want, It looks real easy but It takes lots of time to master the metal and make it work, If you have no former metal forming experience you may want to take a course before you buy anything to see if you can figure it out and handle it.

[HotRodRyan]

Thanks.

[HotRodRyan]

www.metalcrafttools.com (http://www.metalcrafttools.com) you will find your answer there.
Great bunch of people.
Thanks.

[HotRodRyan]

WTF...

[Driven2xs]

It's cheaper to hire it out.

A GOOD wheel will cost 2K+. You can buy cheaper. Sure Harbor Freight has them for around $300. They are JUNK. The stiffer the frame, the better the wheel. Then you get into the radius of the lower anvils. True radius is NOT the way to go. Leaves too many tracking marks. For an education on E Wheels, go to Metalmeet.com Be prepared to read 4.3 million articles about the wheels, the plus's and minus's. For what its worth, I have an Imperial wheel, and it will form metal in 1/3 the time as my buddy's Metal Ace. Frame rigidity. Only reason. Hell, you could build your own frame, based on all the info over there. All said and done,its cheaper to buy.

If you are doing 1 or 2 jobs, consider doing a flexible pattern, and hiring someone to shape the panel. Read up on flexible patterns at Metalmeet.com Some tape and a $50 bill is cheaper than a $2K wheel collecting dust. If not for nothing, read up on the flexible pattern first thing. It translates all the shape of the metal, and will make ANY metal forming 10000000% easier.

[427FAB]

What Driven2x said it looks easy.I worked in a resto shop years ago.The boss had made one out of old I beams weighed a ton,he had the anvils machined from a friend It was a bit prehistoric but it worked,Only two guys in the shop that were able to use it.They were both older than time,they both only used lead to do bodywork as well .I can not tell you how many pieces of metal I messed up and threw out before I had somewhat of a clue as to what I was doing.Go to metalmeetforum.com.If you can find some scrap steel and have some time you could build one if your gonna use it often want but the anvils are gonna set you back a few bucks or like was said, a flexible pattern and a few bucks will get the peice made for you. P.S. whatch your fingers and hands wear heavy duty gloves.

Good Luck

[HotRodRyan]

I appreciate all the posts, but I don't stud work out. I'm done with that shit, I remember the day I didn't know how to do 3 angle valve jobs, set ring and pinions, overhaul 700R4's. Paint Base/Clear...ok ok, my base/clear still waves like the friggin ocean, got me there.

Old school is cool. I'm not saying I have unlimited time and money and love a challenge...but I have the time and I have the money, and I f'ing love a challenge. Thank you all for your consideration and time, I really do. I'll let you all know with pics, how things progress for myself after I do the Christmas thing for everyone else. I was looking in the nature of 15hundo. Anything over 2-thou and I'd walk away for a few months before finally breaking down.

[HotRodRyan]

don't buy one if you think it is easy, You will destroy 1/2 ton of sheet metal before you learn the proper methods to get what you want, It looks real easy but It takes lots of time to master the metal and make it work, If you have no former metal forming experience you may want to take a course before you buy anything to see if you can figure it out and handle it.

I have no doubt you are 110% correct. I still can't lay a base/clear if my life depended on it. And every time I try, it takes me 2 weeks to sand it back down, block smooth, prep, and try again. Steel is cheap in comparison to every time I screw up close to $1000 of material, not to mention my time... Thanks again.

[hemicar]

i would honestly make your own. i have a buddy that made his own frame and then had my uncle make his anvils on a cnc lathe not hard and could prly get pics if you like. i don't think he had more then 500-600 in it mostly materials, machining was free

[427FAB]

Thats what my old boss did .Home made out of I beams or a box truck semi trailer frame.I think someone on metalmeet made one from an old truck frame.The one my boss made weighed a ton and did not flex.I believe a company called Hoosier makes wheels and anvils etc.As far as your Base Coat laying techniques go practice practice!!!!.Like tig welding practice practice!!!!I worked in the body/resto business for years.I have seen some DIY lay down some very nice paint jobs.

Good Luck dont give up.

P.S. I have thrown many filler rods across the room .LOL

[HotRodRyan]

Thats what my old boss did .Home made out of I beams or a box truck semi trailer frame.I think someone on metalmeet made one from an old truck frame.The one my boss made weighed a ton and did not flex.I believe a company called Hoosier makes wheels and anvils etc.As far as your Base Coat laying techniques go practice practice!!!!.Like tig welding practice practice!!!!I worked in the body/resto business for years.I have seen some DIY lay down some very nice paint jobs.

Good Luck dont give up.

P.S. I have thrown many filler rods across the room .LOL

You ain't kidding. I'm gonna give it a few more goes, and then thats it, I will officially quit attempting to base/clear. There comes a point where it's just not worth it. Metal Fab, such as making my own wheel is different. I'd still have time and money into it, but I'm not out to own the slickest wheel in industry. Chances are it's gonna get used and abused. Thanks and have a nice day.

[68 nova 10.5]

I appreciate all the posts, but I don't stud work out. I'm done with that shit, I remember the day I didn't know how to do 3 angle valve jobs, set ring and pinions, overhaul 700R4's. Paint Base/Clear...ok ok, my base/clear still waves like the friggin ocean, got me there.

Old school is cool. I'm not saying I have unlimited time and money and love a challenge...but I have the time and I have the money, and I f'ing love a challenge. Thank you all for your consideration and time, I really do. I'll let you all know with pics, how things progress for myself after I do the Christmas thing for everyone else. I was looking in the nature of 15hundo. Anything over 2-thou and I'd walk away for a few months before finally breaking down.
Paint jobs dont wave body work does the paint only magnifies the bodywork underneath a couple of hints for ya get product information sheets on whatever your spraying and set your airpsi to what it says on the sheet also get a gravity feed gun with atleast a 1.4 fluid nozzel base/clear paints are thicker than old school laquers so you need the proper air volume and spray equipment to spray them nice.also you need an air compressor capeable of keeping up with the air demand of constantly spraying a 6.5hp single stage 60 gallon compressor will barely keep up. the painting beilieve it or not is the easiest part of a paint job its all the prep work beforhand is what makes the paint job nice and the wet sanding and rubbing brings out the shine gloss and beauty of the paint .if there is any other questions feel free to ask Glenn

[HotRodRyan]

Paint jobs dont wave body work does the paint only magnifies the bodywork underneath a couple of hints for ya get product information sheets on whatever your spraying and set your airpsi to what it says on the sheet also get a gravity feed gun with atleast a 1.4 fluid nozzel base/clear paints are thicker than old school laquers so you need the proper air volume and spray equipment to spray them nice.also you need an air compressor capeable of keeping up with the air demand of constantly spraying a 6.5hp single stage 60 gallon compressor will barely keep up. the painting beilieve it or not is the easiest part of a paint job its all the prep work beforhand is what makes the paint job nice and the wet sanding and rubbing brings out the shine gloss and beauty of the paint .if there is any other questions feel free to ask Glenn

I was under powered (compressor wise) the first time I attempted. No excuse for that, just a oversight and lack of experience on my part. I think I was mostly pissed off doing my blocking from the 1st mistake I didn't block the car as much as I should have (time wise and quality) and made another mistake trying to rush it. This winter/spring/summer has been devoted to perfecting the art of hanging full quarter panels and prep work. I got a line on a 1957 Buick Century 2-door that I'd like to purchase. The goal is to get the nature of feel for sheet metal work on my 68 camaro so that there are no suprises on the Buick.

I'm out in Missouri and theres friggin tons of vehicles sittin out in hay and corn fields. Like with the 1950 chevy 2 door deluxe. I can see me choppin the top and sectioning and lowering the body with airbags for a killer look. My coworkers are getting a project set up in Salt Lake for me and they call me everyday spotting fresh meat just sitting out in fields. I guess no one told me ya can't have everything...