Hanging Full Rear Quarters on A 1st Gen Camaro

[HotRodRyan]

I have a 68 that needs some full rear quarters. I know my way around the garage just a much as the next guy. I've already done the floor pans and full inner and outer rocker panels. But this next is/seems a little more tricky than the pans and rockers.

I'm also going to do the trunk floor pan too. But I'm wondering if I should do this all at once or in steps???

Any thoughts to pull this off right the first time. Or pics and photos of this from someone who has already done it.

[blown54]

measure measure measure! then cut small,its easier to cut the body to fit the new quarter that way,then you can trim till you got it the right size.then decide if you want to butt weld it or work with a flange.

[n20mstr]

Make sure when you do the qtrs that you have the fenders/doors on and lined up, a 1st gen has a body line down the whole side of the car, it will be way better to have the fender door and qtr lined up nicely..than to have to line up the qtr and door later to match the qtr...also if this is not a race car and has no frame connectors, make sure the car is properly supported if you jack it up

[Bubstr]

Brown is correct on the measure, You can take some of this out by using jack stands under the front lower control arms, the rear housing and all 4 torque boxes and at the rear lower body panel. This won't allow unibody to sag when you cut floor and quarters off.

Remember when you put the quarters on align door gap first trunk second then the bottom. Tacking or screwing as you go. When you get to attaching the floor to qtrs. you may have to measure and jack on it some. If you have it aligned well at the door and trunk the quarter will show you the correct floor hight. Or very close.

[427FAB]

If you are replacing them at the sails you are gonna have to burn out the lead that the facotry put on a, propane torch will work .I grind that area with a dull 24 disc so the paint dont go up then use a wire brush while putting some heat to it to remove the lead.Make sure its clean you cant mig on lead.The proper thickness for gaps is about 3/16 I have a few pieces of plastic that thick that I use all the way around trunk doors fenders.The car should be level and firmly supported.The door jam ,trunk area and lower rear valance are spotwelded on. I use 3m rololock wheels 80 to 100 grit to take off the paint and find the spotwelds then use a spotweld remover to drill them out.Its time consuming but it will be done right.Measure twice and cut once.I use sheetmetal screws to fasten the quarters once I like the gaps I start tacking.Jump around with those otherwise the metal warps.Depending on which companies parts you use dont be suprised if you have to do some grinding to get the proper gaps.OEM quarters are the only ones that I have never really had problems with.I try and goe back and weld the holes that I made when taking out the spot welds.If you are doing half quarters go from one side to the other when tacking.Its time consuming but the finished product will be worth it.Any other question feel free to ask pm me.Good Luck

[HotRodRyan]

Thank you all.

One last question. I ordered the floor pans and rockers from The Paddock. They are repo replacement panels that went in pretty dam good.

But for Quarters (full) who has the best quality?

Year One any better then the Paddock???

[Driven2xs]

BE SURE TO HAVE THE WEIGHT ON THE SUSPENSION BEFORE REMOVING/REPLACING QUARTERS!!!!!!

Otherwise,its gonna move and look like crap.

Get 2 pieces of 2x3x1/4 angle iron back to back
(2) piece of 2" x 1/2" flat iron, about 16" long , insert that between the back to back angle iron. Thru Bolt, about 12" apart. Drill hole in free end for wheel stud.
Use that as a jack for the wheel. Repeat for all 4 corners. Car sits level, and weight is sprung. Plenty of cutting/welding access.

Get LOTS of clecos for rough in.

Tack in place sparingly

Be sure both sides are symetrical and RIGHT before final welding.
If its good, increase the tacks till everything is rock solid.

CHECK OFTER DURING WELDING!!!!

Leave tail panel in, if possible.

Do trunk after quarters are done.

[Driven2xs]

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos/00015555/thumb_11115030820.jpg

The workable jackstand.

[427FAB]

I would look into Year One or Goodmark.A friend of mine just did rear quarters on a camaro over the summer and had no no problems with Goodmark.With all these repros they are all off a little.Dont get discouraged if they are take your time tweak, weld tweak you will get it done .Like I said before maybe a little grinding here and there or a little massaging.

[blown54]

i just did a 69 z/28 with a goodmark front end firewall forward and had to send back one fender as it was so messed up coming out of the die. The rest of the stuff too alot of tweaking to get it to fit right.I spent 2 weeks getting it all to fit prior to paint.If you can i would look at get some oem quarters,you will pay a little more but in the end you will save money on labor time.

[HotRodRyan]

Next time I'm back in the shop with my digital I'll take some pics of the rockers and floor pans. Turned our real good. Next time I'll lift them 1/2 to 1" for more room for exhause clearance.

[HotRodRyan]

I have the door shells split right now. I'm installing new skins (Paddock) and I'm filling in the handles and locks and going shaved. I've seen it at shows and it looks nice with a lowered stance on polished 17's.

Is smoothing the drip rails too much to ask too. I know the drip rail has structural integrity associated with it, but I've seen em without these and I think it looks killer.

[427FAB]

Yeah its hit or miss with the aftermarket parts .Ive been lucky in the past.Some of them dont have the holes for the marker lights also.The metal is also a bit more flimsy than the OEM.Its a tap here a pull there.Ive been in the same situation .Good luck sounds like a nice project

[HotRodRyan]

Comming together pretty good. I'm still playing with the doors. I'm installing power windows on it. I was gonna do locks...but I have shaved handles so it isn't necessary, lol.

Ya, I've shaved/smoothed most of the sheet metal thats visible thus far. I've taken out/filled all of the factory bends, holes, molding bends on all of the underhood finderwells, radiator support, fenders themselves. Smoothed and tucked the rear brake lights, gas cap, going to fill all of the marker lights (hope it isn't illegal). I'm also in the process of smoothing the firewall and sheeting it in with stainless steel. Probably 35% done after about a year of working on it here and there.

Gonna be another one of them overinvested camaro's that isn't worth half of whats into it, lol.

[doowop_21]

the best aftermarket provider that i have foud is good mark are eithier year one