Installing fiberglass wheel openings

[68Bird]

I need to stretch my rear wheel openings over the winter. Right now the factory openings are just cut in the front / back and look bad. I was going to buy new 1/4's and stretch them myself, but then I found these from Harwood:
http://www.eharwood.com/catalog/product.php?productID=63

My question is how to attach them to the sheetmetal and how to get the seam flat. I'm far from a body guy but I've done a fair amount of sheetmetal work in the past (full 1/4's, patch panels, etc). Normally if that were a steel piece I'd just butt weld the seam or lap it. But since the fiberglass piece is so much thicker than steel, how do I get the seam flat so I don't need a ton of filler and how do I attach it? Rivets?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Also what would a ballpark cost be to have a shop install them?

Thanks,
Craig

[blown54]

you would install the fiberglass on the back side of the sheet metal or (quarter)
and to secure it would be with bonding adhessive and rivets.Then i like to lay a fine sheet of fiberglass cloth over the seem on the outside to keep it from cracking,then do your normal body work and finishing.

[68Bird]

Thanks for the reply Jeff. I assume one would have to flange the sheetmetal edge so the rivet heads will be below the body line? Or do you use the rivets just temporarily until the adhesive is set then drill 'em out?

Wanna come down to MO and show me how to do one side? I'm pretty sure I can figure it out from there on the other side. LOL.:)

Craig

[blown54]

yes i use the rivets to hold the fiberglass till the bonding dries.then when its all done,just grind the heads off and lay your sheet of glass on the outside.

[68Bird]

Thanks Jeff!


Craig

[Mark Kasperan]

Do a lot of people use these? I've always just cut the quarter and re-welded it. This might be easier.

[68Bird]

Do a lot of people use these? I've always just cut the quarter and re-welded it. This might be easier.

The problem as I see it is 2 fold.....one the 67-68 wheel wells aren't flat at the top like some cars. You kinda need a straight section at the top about 3"-4" long as part of the factory 1/4 to leave in place then you can move the front / back of the opening 1-1/2" to 2" each way. The 2nd problem is in order to get a complete wheel well I almost have to buy a complete full 1/4 skin which are $200 each. The Harwoods are appealing cause the 'stretching' is all ready done and they're $200/pair. If only someone made the same thing in sheet metal, then that would be super easy.


Craig

[Mark Kasperan]

The problem as I see it is 2 fold.....one the 67-68 wheel wells aren't flat at the top like some cars. You kinda need a straight section at the top about 3"-4" long as part of the factory 1/4 to leave in place then you can move the front / back of the opening 1-1/2" to 2" each way. The 2nd problem is in order to get a complete wheel well I almost have to buy a complete full 1/4 skin which are $200 each. The Harwoods are appealing cause the 'stretching' is all ready done and they're $200/pair. If only someone made the same thing in sheet metal, then that would be super easy.


Craig


In metal would be sweet! Good luck with it, would like to know how it turns out.

[Ludicrous Speed]

I used the Harwood openings. I must say, I was quite impressed with the quality! I cut and flanged my factory 1/4's and used bonding adhesive. Held it with rivets and then drilled them out later. I did not glass over the outsides, but did it where I could reach on the inside and glassed the tubs to the 1/4 to seal it all up. Finished the outside with evercoat kitty hair on the seams or deeper gaps and then skimmed it with Rage gold.

[Ludicrous Speed]

Wow, I just realized how old that post was. Dredging them up, I gues!

[68Bird]

Wow, I just realized how old that post was. Dredging them up, I gues!

Thats ok.....I haven't done the 1/4's yet so more ideas / suggestions are still welcome! I'd really like to get the Harwood's but I'm a bit scared to work with fiberglass and make it look nice and last. Have any pics of the job you did?

Craig

[racefab57]

I always wanted to make a couple swetched wheel openings for 1/4's out of steel! If anybody wants em give me dimentions and ill try em ! If you like em pay me something!!!!! I have a body shop, and do sheetmetal work!! David.

[chevytoo]

I would also like to hear more. I am by no means a body man but have no prob with tin. I need to stretch the quarters on my 67 chevy 2. Pics or a set of steel ones would be cool.

[chevytoo]

What kind of glue would you use?

[Nitrousnova]

I did the quarters on my 67'. just cut from the middle, moved the front half forward 2", and moved the back 2". Filled the middle, it was quite easy on that car.

Pat

[Ludicrous Speed]

What kind of glue would you use?

3m Panelbond Adhesive or an equivalant

[chevytoo]

3m Panelbond Adhesive or an equivalantThanks

[gilsbachracecraft]

3m Panelbond Adhesive or an equivalantp/n 8115,I use it all the time for almost any type of material.If you don't want to buy the 125-400 dollar guns for it just mix it yourself with a bondo spreader and push each side of the tube equal amounts(don't use the mixing tip supplied with the glue).