Launch tuning question

[n2oracer]

I'm about ready to start wiring my car. I hope to have everything ready to go by early next year. I have a couple of questions, but here's some background first.

The car is a stock suspension 84 Regal. It has been gutted of everything that does not make it go fast. The engine is a 482" BBC with a plate system. I plan on keeping the spray below 300hp. Trans is a TH350 W/O a brake. It has a 9" converter w/ around a 40-4500 stall. The rear is a 9" w/ 4.30 gears. The car has 29.5 x 10.5 M/T ET Drags. I estimate the weight to be about 3350# w/ driver. I will be running 1/8 mile only.

Now here comes the questions. I will be footbraking and the nitrous will activate on a WOT switch. At this point I'm not sure if the car will hook with a shot straight off the line. I really don't care to have the car going to the bumper if it does. I have one Digiset timer to use. Which would be a better and more tunable approach : delay activation of nitrous with timer a few tenths or pull out extra timing for a set amount of time? I have the Holley digital ignition system and I don't have a crank trigger. Right now I have no plans of changing it, so the launch curve deal of the MSD is out.

Let's hear some thoughts on this. I don't want to change things around once I wire the car.

[Jim Monson]

I would not play with timing curves until you get a crank trigger. Delaying the nitrous will keep the car from standing on the bumper. If you start with a small nitrous tune up you probably will not have any launch problems. If the lauch becomes too violent delay the nitrous activation with the timer. Just try to get as much power to the ground as soon as possible. Your 60', and 330' ET's have a big impact on 1/4 mile ET.

[monte_kev]

I will be using the NX maximizer to handle my nitrous controls.
mostly for a short delay after launch and then a possible progression.

if we hit two stages. I will launch on one small stage off the starting line and then introduce the big hit with the maximizer.

a controller is another option for ya

[n2oracer]

Why would using an extra retard via the Digiset not be a good idea? Seems it would be more tunable. I was thinking that as the timing began to retard ( fire closer to TDC) the rotor would become more inline with the cap.

[Jim Monson]

The timing just will not be accurate if you don't use a crank trigger. Accurate timing is critical with nitrous. A couple degrees of error can hurt parts. Also, you should phase your rotor in. Then you'll know exaclty where it lines up to the cap.

[outlawss]

I'm about ready to start wiring my car. I hope to have everything ready to go by early next year. I have a couple of questions, but here's some background first.

The car is a stock suspension 84 Regal. It has been gutted of everything that does not make it go fast. The engine is a 482" BBC with a plate system. I plan on keeping the spray below 300hp. Trans is a TH350 W/O a brake. It has a 9" converter w/ around a 40-4500 stall. The rear is a 9" w/ 4.30 gears. The car has 29.5 x 10.5 M/T ET Drags. I estimate the weight to be about 3350# w/ driver. I will be running 1/8 mile only.

Now here comes the questions. I will be footbraking and the nitrous will activate on a WOT switch. At this point I'm not sure if the car will hook with a shot straight off the line. I really don't care to have the car going to the bumper if it does. I have one Digiset timer to use. Which would be a better and more tunable approach : delay activation of nitrous with timer a few tenths or pull out extra timing for a set amount of time? I have the Holley digital ignition system and I don't have a crank trigger. Right now I have no plans of changing it, so the launch curve deal of the MSD is out.

Let's hear some thoughts on this. I don't want to change things around once I wire the car.


i would re-think the turbo 350............. :?

[Griswald]

I have the same chassis G-body and leave off the brake with 1 kit and turn the 2nd on about .6 out. If you have good suspension parts and good shocks there's no reason the car won't work. I assume you have an anti-roll bar of some sort?