Cam - No Core

[Lucky13]

Hello


I was interested in getting a cam made for a Turbo Inline Six I am building. I was wandering if it might be possible you have cores for these engines(doutfull). It is a 225 Slant Six Mopar engine. They use the same lifters as the V8 Mopar Small blocks & we even use the Small Block springs on the heads.


If you can not get a core you was willing to use to build the cam would you be willing to design it for me to get someone else to grind it. It would be a Solid Lift cam, I want get into any specs at this time but just let me know your thought or ability to do this.

Thanks for the help.



Jess

[Jay Allen]

There are several ways to get this done. But in short, yes I can do this. A turbocharged slant 6. Now this is unique.

If and when you want to buy a cam, go to my site and complete a build sheet. That is step #1.

Thanks.

[Lucky13]

There are several ways to get this done. But in short, yes I can do this. A turbocharged slant 6. Now this is unique.

If and when you want to buy a cam, go to my site and complete a build sheet. That is step #1.

Thanks.


Thanks for the reply. Yes of course I will fill out the advanced sheet for you. There is alot of have to do at this piont. Seeing what the head is capable of from the porter is one thing I am waiting on. From there we will deside on rod ratio and some other things.

Just for now & interest it has a 4.120x3.504 bore & stroke with around 1.72 rod ratio looks like what it will be built at. So low RPM (6000 rpm) is probably the game we will be playing.



Thanks Jess

[Jay Allen]

Obviously you have the stroke etched in stone. That is good!

Now get a piston made that is appropriate. Ring stack, pin placement, etc.

Then.......

Whatever is left is the rod length. My words of wisdom, pay zero attention to R:S ratio.

[Rick_R]

Now get a piston made that is appropriate. Ring stack, pin placement,
I can agree with jay here, ring stack and pin placement is much more important than rod ratio. these are 2 areas that should not be comprimised but often are so someone can have a nice "number" (rod ratio) that doesn't mean much of anything.

[Lucky13]

I agree with the rod ratio info for sure. And it is how the lenth will be determand after the piston builder sets the specs of the pistons. The stroke is set in stone, it is the factory stroke of these engine and there is no other cranks available. I dont intend on any offset grinding because I need to keep as much strenth in the crank as I can. They are factory forged pieces & mopar factory cranks are good to begine with but there is still no need in trying to gain a few .000 in stroke & give up reliability.


I have been told several times that good cam blanks are a problem for these engines. But a proper grind will do the engine alot of good on the power & with what I have to work with I need to maximize every part of the build that I can, head flow, cam, intake & exhaust need to really be in tune with the short block so I dont leave anything on the table.

Getting kinda excited myself, it looks like I will get to start this prodject in about a month.


Jess

[95silverstallion]

Can you guys tell me what you mean by "ring stack"?

[Rick_R]

Can you guys tell me what you mean by "ring stack"?
Simply the placement of the rings on the piston, different setups require different ring placements.

[Jay Allen]

Simply the placement of the rings on the piston, different setups require different ring placements.
Exactly. Another way to word it is ring package.

The entire *group* of rings on each piston needs to be placed in a certain location based on the engine design. This is a very intricate, very precise thing when building a high level engine. The ring stack/ring package can and will vary from engine builder to engine builder based on what each builder believes to be *right*.

Here is a very good example, the SBF 331 v 347 thing. There are MANY people out there who firmly believe the top ring being in the pin makes a 347 smoke and/or use oil. Thus you'll get told that a 331 is better *street* option. That is a bunch of $h!t and is stated by people who just do not understand.

I KNOW many SBC guys who run a 1.000" c/h piston and street drive it a lot. 5K miles per year. This is the piston required in a 434 SBC with a 6.00" rod and a 4.00" stroke. They don't have problems and they use a 1/16 top ring that is .150" down. Now on a 347 SBF piston that has a .043" top ring, .200" down and a 1.080" c/h, it should be easier on the top ring.

It all comes back to the builder. The one who knows how to file a ring. Check a bore for straightness. Those are the guys who build 347's. The ones who don't build 331's.

I know I went overboard (imagine that) but I am sure it answers your question.

Thanks.

[Lucky13]

It has been brought to my attention that the cam blank problem is for a roller cam blank & not for a Machanical cam blank. Which is good info as far as i am concerned because it is not a Roller cam I am wanting but a Machanical left cam.

Although it does apear there will be some Roller Billet blanks coming form Argentina in the future if this was to be considered by me.


Good news on my part I was givin info this morning on something I have been waiting on. This info has been the holdup on my build & now allows me to put the thinking cap on & start turning the wrenchs to get this thing underway. So depending on how long it takes for other things to get takin care of the camshaft grind will be coming soon after. Rods seem to be my biggest hitch. The rod builder allows it will take 6 weeks from time of info given for the rod tell they are completed. Not a extreem amount of time by no means for a custom part but it will bring on some down time for the wait. But this will also give me the time for building the custom girdle & windage tray needed & can probably send the block & crank off for deep freeze treatment(cyro) during this time. So going over all this info in my head I think about two months from now we can supply the needed info for the cam grind.


Jess

[ROB]

Here is a very good example, the SBF 331 v 347 thing. There are MANY people out there who firmly believe the top ring being in the pin makes a 347 smoke and/or use oil. Thus you'll get told that a 331 is better *street* option. That is a bunch of $h!t and is stated by people who just do not understand.


This one cracks me up because the 347 combo was reliable (at least from a ring seal & piston durability standpoint) the first time it was built back in the early '70's.

During a conversation with a very well respected dirt late model engine builder, he mentioned concern with a 3.45" stroke 302-based SBF combination I was working on. His story was all about the short piston & ring life plus excessive bore wear.

During the same conversation, he told me all about his 5.850" rod 3.800" stroke Chevy engines & how great they perform.

Funny part is his Chevy & my Ford have the same rod/stroke ratio in them. LOL!!!!

He was red & quiet when I mentioned this....

[Jay Allen]

This one cracks me up because the 347 combo was reliable (at least from a ring seal & piston durability standpoint) the first time it was built back in the early '70's.

During a conversation with a very well respected dirt late model engine builder, he mentioned concern with a 3.45" stroke 302-based SBF combination I was working on. His story was all about the short piston & ring life plus excessive bore wear.

During the same conversation, he told me all about his 5.850" rod 3.800" stroke Chevy engines & how great they perform.

Funny part is his Chevy & my Ford have the same rod/stroke ratio in them. LOL!!!!

He was red & quiet when I mentioned this....
Absolutely!!!

I hear this one [its pretty funny] "Well a Ford ain't a Chevy". OMG. Its just the *New Breed* I tell ya.